Secret Storm, 5.10a
FA: Peter Haan and Roger Breedlove, 1971
to the route and gear beta:
From Camp 4 walk up past
Columbia Boulder and into the brush. Find the trail and walk towards
El Cap (west) until you come to a dry stream bed. Ascend up this,
keeping to it's left, until you meet the cliff. Then walk the cliff
base left around the base (where Doggie Do is), up a slope to a right
facing corner. Fourth class up this corner to a large oak tree. You\'ll
find that continuing along this gets you to Edge of Night. At the
tree, you go a little right to the corner. Scramble up this if you
like climbing unroped on dirt filled cracks with loose blocks. A rope
wouldn\'t be too bad an idea.
Amazingly, we used nothing
larger than one #4 old BD Camalot. But take a goodly amount of gear
in lots of different sizes from small to the #4 as pro is possible
along the route.
Gary at the belay anchors in this composite picture of the climb.
Additional notes and strategy:
While the 5.10a OW crux is a good one, the "5.7 Chimney" at the top of the climb is the real crux in my opinion. I had my back to the cliff looking out into the Valley and had to figure out how to turn around. The next time I go up this climb (and there will be a next time) I\'d look at doing the turn around a bit earlier. Once you overcome this problem, there are a couple of delicate moves to get over to the belay station.
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