FA: Randal Grandstaff, Jon Martinet, 1970's
to the route and gear beta:
Info submitted by Russ:
Park at the Sandstone Quarry. Follow the giant trail from
the back of the parking area towards Sand Canyon, which will be the
first main draw on your right after walking about 6 minutes. Hike
way up Sand Canyon. You will see the good dark rock that is Chrysler
Cracks home up on the top of the canyon on your right. You will think
there is no way to get there. You are almost right. At the top of
the canyon on your right you will see a slot that leads through all
the way to the front side of the formation. Go into this slot and
then wander up and right onto a set of tiered ledges, doing a few
actual climbing moves to get up to the large ramp system that you
can walk right on to the base of the climb.
The descent is to climbers left after you top out. Walk and scramble
down the slabs working back left to the base of the climb. Retrace
your path down the tiers to get back into the Sand Canyon gully.
Wild Country #6, a giant
tube (like 8" or larger) and then a couple of small to med nuts
and maybe a .5" TCU or similar. If you have any dreams of protecting
the middle to upper portion of this crack, have something in the 9"
to 13" range or forget about it... Anchor takes med nuts to a
2" cam about 20 feet back from the top out. To TR you will need
a long extendo runner in the 20ft range.
Sooze checking it for size
Gear selection and action
Footstacking at the crux and Sooze at the top
The rock is really clean
and smooth, especially compared to the surrounding features. With
the crack starting wide from the get go, don\'t be shy about burning
your #6 Wild Country early. It will only fit down at the start of
Inside the crack at about mid height there are some wispy thin cracks
that sorta take pro. I was not really counting on these pieces to
hold much, and they were awkward to place since they are on the wall
that your back is on, behind you. They might be good, or they might
be bad, but they are all you are going to get unless you have a something
in the 10" range or larger at that point.
After passing the middle steep section, there is an obvious transition
to some lower angle rock and the crack is wide enough to get completely
inside if you need a secure few minutes to rest up for the summit
info on the route: YES
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