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Author Topic: WideBoyz film reviews  (Read 9351 times)
RussWalling
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« on: November 30, 2012, 11:10:01 AM »

We, that would be about 12 of us at last count, have been waiting for the WideBoyz film to come out, and finally it is here and available for DVD purchase or Download from HotAches Productions.  (ordering info at the bottom of the review)

My excitement would have to wait a bit as the download is rather larger at about 2.5 Gigs and my connection to the internet is rather slow.  But time prevailed and at last the download was finished and the film was ready for viewing.  I settled in with a small whisky, a snack tray of cream crackers, some assorted meats and a pickled onion.  Roll film…

The WideBoyz film is following two lovely young lads Tom an Pete as they train for and them hope to wipe the bum of all American offwidth climbers at what is supposedly their own game, climbing offwidth  In the style of Jerry Moffatt before them who famously said,"I love burning off me mates" or something similar in another old film, these guys are serious about their mission.  

I really liked the training footage in the cellar as it almost had a Rocky-esque feel to it.  I've built contraptions myself and was very interested to see just what these guys were up to down there.  The main piece of apparatus was dedication.  I love that.  It was not some fancy device or egg head dream machine that got them in shape.  It was hard work.  The distinct thread throughout the film was that these lads try harder and train harder than just about  anyone, and it shows.

As the film moves on toward America, I would have like to have seen, or maybe I just missed it, some of the names of the climbs they were on in Britain.  A little more background filler of perhaps what they normally climb and all that would have been nice too.  Except for the 500+ route day they did together, I did not know if they were punters or 5.14 V13 rock stars.  

Anyway, in America, the vastness of USA offwidth was sort of glossed over.  I was hoping for more footage of the stuff they did leading up to Century crack.  Their ticklist is one for the ages, and it would have been great so see some of those climbs, either in video or stills from the talented photog Alex Ekins.  

Hold on, I'm heading for some more whisky and another onion…..

Back….

Another really cool thing was the interviews with various wide guys along with Stevie and Crusher.  I'm a sucker for a good look inside the head of fringe dwellers and these snippets did not disappoint.  I thought the Scarpelli section with his analogy of OW to boxing was quite good and looking at the 1000yd stare of Brad Jackson as he spoke was intense and telling.  Good stuff.

Onto the main event, Century Crack.  Good Lord that thing is awesome and the footage was great.  Of particular note was how easy, in a relative sense, they made it look.  Their ascents were very workman-like and efficient. It was obvious they were on top of the game and what a capper to hands down the best season of wide ever accomplished.  But then the drama.  No film is complete without drama and an internet fueled one at that.  Their redpoint of Century Crack was no good without placing all the gear on lead.  Even I was crushed after hearing this news and I'm was just sitting here watching, and thinking about all my now nullified top rope ascents…

So the lads now have to lead the thing in "good style".  Of course they do, sort of begrudgingly, but crack the thing off again placing all the gear on lead.  What an effort!

The trip is over, they have in effect done them all as far as US OW's go, and they head back to whatever they do back home.  We don't really know, as there was no background filler, but let's just say Pete resumed his position with an exotic dance outfit in Bristol, and Tom returned to work at the HP Sauce factory.  

The quick and dirty:

Buy this film if you have any interest in the Wide, are WideCurious, or actually fancy yourself as a bit of a wide climber.  

Do not buy this film if you are a lowly bolt clipper or sit down start V3 guy.  There is nothing in there for you.  Nobody even yells, except for a couple of small grunts at the lip of the maw and I think it is techno free.  You will be bored to tears.

I give it 4.238 stars out of 5

Click here to order:  http://hotaches.com/shop/wide-boyz/

But... here is the cool part... Any WideFetish people that want to get a copy can get a discount, graciously offered by the Hot Aches team.  Email me for details and I'll send you the code to get 10% off any of their products!  Sweet action!

Also check out Alex Ekins blog for more pics and info:  http://alexekins.co.uk/category/blog/
« Last Edit: January 09, 2013, 02:29:39 PM by RussWalling » Logged

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Jaybro
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« Reply #1 on: November 30, 2012, 05:04:09 PM »

I guess I had better check it out.....
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Ed Hartouni
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« Reply #2 on: November 30, 2012, 08:54:18 PM »

here are my thoughts:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1996279&msg=1998324#msg1998324
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Mike Friedrichs
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« Reply #3 on: November 30, 2012, 10:19:25 PM »

Getting the film seemed complicated. The download seemed to take forever and came in quicktime format. Since I preferred to watch it on my television instead of a 15 inch screen on my computer, it took some fiddling to figure out how to convert to DVD. I finally got through that crux and got down to some serious viewing.

The story was really good. The audio and video was quite good. It delivered an emotional punch when they crawled over the lip of Century Crack, especially the second time. I  enjoyed the interviews, particularly with Bob. I liked the training segments. I found it curious that most of the scenes from the Reel Rock 7 weren't in the feature. Wonder why? My only real complaint is that it is just too short. There's little of Vedauwoo, or some of the other areas they saw on their trip, or what it was like for them to travel through America and meet all these crazy characters. There's nothing of the first ascent they did on the white rim after Century Crack. And there was little context about how it felt to come here with really minimal OW experience and do routes that OW masters with 20+ years of experience didn't, or couldn't do.

I was a little miffed that the extras weren't included in the download. You get 48 minutes. The website says something about how most are available for free download but no link and no instructions about where to find them.

Overall it was good. I met Pete and Tom when they were in Salt Lake and found them thoroughly enjoyable. They were able to take the climbing and the goals very seriously without taking themselves too seriously. They always remembered to have fun. They certainly connect and are really fortunate to have such a mutually beneficial partnership. I think the lads are so charming and so positive and basically such good people that thats what ultimately comes through in the film and makes it shine.
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tomPR
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« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2012, 02:42:10 PM »

Hi Mike,

I've got some extras DVDs (not sure why it wasn't on the download?) that I can post out to the in the US if you want? It might take a while, but I'm happy to help out - I owe ya!

Re: the extra filming in the US. Yeah it was a bit of tricky issue really. I think the US guy that was filming us wasn't really that sure that us british punters were going to be pulling it out of the bag and that we actually doing anything of significance as he didn't come over to film us that much. It felt kind of frustrating at times (I hope he doesn't mind me saying that) but I did also appreciate that there was a budget/resource limit for it and other projects may have got in the way. All in all, we were filmed 4 days on Century, 1 on Gabriel and 1 or 2 on some random stuff. I'd really wished Witness the Wideness could have been filmed, but everyone had gone by then. It's probably one of the best wide routes that we did in the States (mainly as there were so many styles packed into one roof pitch). So yeah, I definitely know what you're saying.

I think quite a bit of the Bob, Brad, Pamela footage/interviews was all done after we left USA and was done by REEL rock people. I got to see some of the unedited interviews and it's quite spicy stuff! Typically controversial and funny. I think you could make a great short film just with Bob, Pamela, Brad, Justin, Squeezo, Jaybro, Patrick all saying funny shiit about each other and climbing together. I'd pay for that  Grin  They were all a great bunch of people - made me feel boring!

The future of climbing? Well, it's when Hetchy Hetchy is restored and someone does that 150ft OW roof pitch right?HuhHuhHuhHuh
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RussWalling
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« Reply #5 on: December 01, 2012, 03:04:08 PM »

Hey Tom,

If you can get some DVD's over to Mick Ryan at Rockfax he can send them to me and I'll send them out to our guys here in the States.  That bastard Mick still owes me a UK shipment and popping those in should be no problem.
ta,
Russ
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tomPR
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« Reply #6 on: December 01, 2012, 04:55:04 PM »

I can do that. Don't get too excited though - it's only me and Pete talking bullshit about cracks as usual. Happy to send 10 over??

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Ed Hartouni
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« Reply #7 on: December 01, 2012, 06:50:48 PM »

Hey Tom, you guys rocked! just wished it could have been told in the story... the Reel Rock guys contacted me for some video so they were trying hard to get it together on this for sure...

...you definitely pulled it out of the bag, in fact, it's a whole different bag now!

thanks and best wishes

(I wouldn't count on Hetch Hetchy roofs, but there are probably some pretty sweet cracks hiding under the silt in there)
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RussWalling
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« Reply #8 on: December 01, 2012, 08:28:10 PM »

I can do that. Don't get too excited though - it's only me and Pete talking bullshit about cracks as usual. Happy to send 10 over??

Sounds great.  You get them to Mick and I'll send them to any USA download guys that missed the extra stuff or whatever might be going on.  I'll cover shipping on this end until we run out of vids.  Let me know when you send them so I can start crawling up Micks tree.  He might even be in the States for Xmas, and can send them to me from his winter haunt.
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caughtinside
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« Reply #9 on: December 02, 2012, 12:46:09 PM »

Just watched the film yesterday, fantastic!!  I think this is the first climbing film I have ever paid for, such was my anticipation. 

I have to say I loved every bit of the film.  The story, the climbing footage, the interviews.  I will echo that I was a bit disappointed to not see more climbs featured in the movie.  The ticklist was so legendary, I would have liked to have seen more of those routes.  I haven't been to Veudawoo and would love to see more of that spot.  This thing was solid entertainment and I only wish it was twice as long!

Very refreshing not to have all the whooping and hollering prominent in American sport and bouldering vids. 

My non climber gf watched the thing with us and loved it as well.  The commentary from Tom's wife had her crying with laughter at times, I think she can relate.  Was funny when Jaybro popped up and she said 'Hey, isn't that the wheat grass enema fan we had thanksgiving with?"

Lowlights:  She seemed to think Tom was cuter than Pete.  Bad news for me, since I look more like Pete.  Angry
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Will
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« Reply #10 on: December 02, 2012, 10:39:52 PM »

Sounds like a winner. Guess I'll order a hard copy, my poached wifi is lucky to get a podcast to DL, no chance on multi gigs.
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Jaybro
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« Reply #11 on: December 03, 2012, 01:26:21 PM »

You'll like it Will. I'm watching it now. It's very well done. The criticisms have hit the key points. Its not an offwidth movie, its a wideboyz movie, and they do a lot of offwidth. There are a lot of things i wanted to see that maybe things to be in a different movie.   I was especially glad to see the Gabriel footage. It's very well done.  The century crack stuff delivers.It'll be shown as a motivational film to non climbers even.
I'm going to have gel a gestalt here, before talking about it in any greater depth.

Just like in real life though. Bob kicks ass!
« Last Edit: December 03, 2012, 01:40:48 PM by Jaybro » Logged
tomPR
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« Reply #12 on: December 03, 2012, 04:18:02 PM »

Russ, could you speak to Mike Ryan about these DVDs. You give him the holler and I'll hand him the dollar (so to speak).

Ta!
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RussWalling
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« Reply #13 on: December 03, 2012, 06:05:32 PM »

Tom,
I'll email him right now and get you a shipping address etc.
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Jaybro
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« Reply #14 on: December 03, 2012, 09:40:02 PM »

Lot of fun in the added features, too.

"Pete give me a crack..."
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Mike Friedrichs
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« Reply #15 on: December 04, 2012, 08:17:05 AM »

I'm looking forward to seeing the features. One segment from Reel Rock that I remember that didn't make the film was where Bob said that on his best day ever he couldn't have done what Tom and Pete did. That was really meaningful to me. Bob put so much energy and time into developing the "craft" and has accomplished so much that this is high praise. Thanks Tom for getting the DVDs for us.
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Jaybro
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« Reply #16 on: December 05, 2012, 04:50:07 PM »

I haven't thought of anything especially erudite to say, but it's a very good movie and those inclined should get it and see it. I haven't seen all the extras yet but I'm sure there's more goodies 'n excrement!
Me, bob crusher 'n peewee, how can you go wrong? Oh and a couple of Britts!

Mike you gonna be around the night of the 21st? I'm headed back to cal then, with it in my car.....

Oh and my associate here in Moab, young Pamela agrees with you Tom, that a movie of the American wydeclimbers excrement talking each other then going out to the crags would be money! I think so too.
« Last Edit: December 07, 2012, 06:16:13 AM by Jaybro » Logged
RussWalling
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« Reply #17 on: December 06, 2012, 11:15:27 AM »

Emails sent to Mick.  He says he was busy playing Cricket and will back with us shortly.
« Last Edit: December 06, 2012, 11:31:22 AM by RussWalling » Logged

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RussWalling
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« Reply #18 on: December 22, 2012, 12:52:11 PM »

Mick is a slacker....  no word back and he is probably already in the States. 

I can do it still if you wish to mail them to me direct.  Already have a couple / few inquiries here in the US from download guys.
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Jaybro
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« Reply #19 on: December 29, 2012, 08:47:10 AM »

Wyde bump
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tomPR
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« Reply #20 on: January 04, 2013, 03:01:10 PM »

Russ, send me an address and I'll sort it.

Mick, you owe both me and Russ now.  Smiley 
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RussWalling
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« Reply #21 on: January 04, 2013, 03:34:07 PM »

Email sent!
cheers!
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tomPR
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« Reply #22 on: January 13, 2013, 01:21:15 PM »

Hi Russ, before I send these DVDs over I think I may well have found a solution for you (or any anyone else wants to see the extras)....

Hotaches have uploaded the extras for free on their website. No cash, just an email and no 4 week wait for me to send anything by post! Hopefully that helps people out :-)

http://hotaches.com/climbing-films/wide-boyz/

Just click on the tab that says "Extras".



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Mike Friedrichs
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« Reply #23 on: January 16, 2013, 01:37:56 PM »

Thanks Tom. It's nice to see the extras. I still wish I could download them and save them with the video that I paid for. But this is the next best thing.
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Ed Hartouni
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« Reply #24 on: January 17, 2013, 12:52:52 AM »

thanks for the link to the extras...
nice to see a bit more...
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Willoughby
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« Reply #25 on: February 22, 2013, 03:21:41 PM »

Extras!

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RussWalling
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« Reply #26 on: February 22, 2013, 04:21:14 PM »

Is the guy on the right wearing pumps?  Hardcore!
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Willoughby
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« Reply #27 on: March 27, 2014, 06:19:12 PM »

Figured most of you will have seen this on the Taco by now, but just in case it gets buried, they're streaming the flick for free for the next few weeks: http://hotaches.com/free-climbing-film/
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Jaybro
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« Reply #28 on: March 29, 2014, 12:44:18 PM »

That's for the new one, isn't it? The anorexic finger crackers, or something like that?
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