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Author Topic: "The best thing you can do for your OW climbing is slab climbing"  (Read 1777 times)
RussWalling
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« on: July 15, 2012, 09:19:20 AM »

Bruce Morris?

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-thrill-is-gone/107701570
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scuffy b
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« Reply #1 on: July 16, 2012, 07:56:36 PM »

I haven't done that, but I know Jay has. Jam the roof or undercling?
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Ed Hartouni
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Living in the past


« Reply #2 on: July 16, 2012, 09:34:58 PM »

Gary and I and Boku-Bob did it...

go up, undercling traverse, then I did a wild left knee-bar to get around the corner, it's grunt to the top...

Bruce was on the FA of another quality OW right around the corner Enemy Within which has a way to cheat up the first bit with no OW, but has a great 5.10 section with many techniques involved... watched a lovely LA girl try to face climb it, she was wearing shorts and didn't have the horsepower, or the technique to pull it off...

Amy from Sonora did get up it in good style, her vocalizations are rather more interesting than most...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=454299&msg=1588078#msg1588078

Gary might have some pix...
I'll see if I do...
« Last Edit: July 16, 2012, 09:41:02 PM by Ed Hartouni » Logged
Ed Hartouni
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« Reply #3 on: July 16, 2012, 10:22:17 PM »

here we go... Gary confronting Enemy Within  5.10b, Olmstead Canyon, Tuolumne Meadows, CA...



that ugly gaping slot to the left is Talk Dirty To Me the meaning of which becomes apparent when you wiggle through the squeeze on top!
« Last Edit: July 16, 2012, 10:37:29 PM by Ed Hartouni » Logged
RussWalling
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« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2012, 12:44:38 PM »

Figured you guys had been on that thing!  Good stuff!
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Ed Hartouni
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« Reply #5 on: July 22, 2012, 11:16:41 PM »

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/GL7oUeNn8jY?version=3&amp;amp;hl=en_US" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/GL7oUeNn8jY?version=3&amp;amp;hl=en_US</a>

« Last Edit: July 22, 2012, 11:19:10 PM by Ed Hartouni » Logged
Ed Hartouni
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Living in the past


« Reply #6 on: July 23, 2012, 10:19:23 PM »

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/v/ebsZpkpFSHI?version=3&amp;amp;hl=en_US" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/v/ebsZpkpFSHI?version=3&amp;amp;hl=en_US</a>

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RussWalling
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« Reply #7 on: July 24, 2012, 08:57:45 AM »

Good stuff Ed!
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nutjob
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« Reply #8 on: July 24, 2012, 12:49:18 PM »

Glorious! I need to spend more time over here for the goods.

I really want to try that Thrill is Gone. And the song is certainly more inspiring for me than Enemy Within.
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