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Willoughby
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« on: January 26, 2012, 07:52:00 PM » |
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I asked this in another thread, but it was either roundly ignored or missed or nobody cares or fornicate that Willoughby guy or ...
Anyway, my question is how wet/dry the obvious south-facing, low-elevation cracks will be after last weekend's deluge and this week's fair weather. We got a fair bit of rain today in Tahoe, but I think it missed down south. I'm planning on heading down first thing tomorrow, but it's a long drive. Worst case scenario I spend the weekend looking at pumping waterfalls, but I'd rather climb. So, y'all could save me the time and gas for another weekend if you'd be willing to share your vast perspective.
If anyone else is heading to the Valley this weekend and wants to meet up for some wide groveling, or just beer drinking, speak up in the next couple of hours or just look for a green Tacoma with "Tahoe Institute for Natural Science" decals on the doors.
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« Last Edit: January 26, 2012, 10:54:00 PM by Willoughby »
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RussWalling
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« Reply #1 on: January 26, 2012, 10:28:51 PM » |
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There is always something dry. Do the Left Side of Gollum or the Kaukulator..... them is dry for sure!
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Ed Hartouni
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« Reply #2 on: January 26, 2012, 10:46:55 PM » |
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sorry for not answering on one of the other threads...
a week after rain usually doesn't have any effect, especially since it has been a very dry year
what you want is sunshine, so you'll be warm, and stay off the Valley floor, which you will if you are climbing anything.
down canyon be careful to avoid the poison oak sticks if you're thrashing up to climbs from 140 (like This 'n That, etc where the crux is the PO)
I should be there on Sunday but I'm on a mission, I will stop by if I id your ride though...
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Willoughby
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« Reply #3 on: January 26, 2012, 10:53:17 PM » |
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Thanks guys. I'm usually skiing this time of year, so really don't have a whole lot of perspective. I did spend three days there a few Februarys ago, and definitely recall lovely weather, lots of P.O. at Pat Jack, and a fair bit of water in the cracks here and there. Anyway, I'm hoping for a few dry spots, but I heard it was raining sideways for days on end. It was certainly pounding down up here straight through Monday.
Gollum's on the short list. Kaukulator might be a tad chilly, and hard.
Good luck on yer mission, Ed!
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1429
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« Reply #4 on: January 27, 2012, 06:56:22 AM » |
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Gollum is groovy, and in the sun!
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Willoughby
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« Reply #5 on: January 30, 2012, 01:28:01 AM » |
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Thanks guys. Nights were COLD, as were mornings, but the sunny days were nice (if short). Glad we went. But I don't have too much to report, wide-wise, as we were lazy and out of shape and got snail eye for the hard stuff and mostly just cruised shamefully easy stuff.
I did, however, manage to get my knee cap very stuck in Generator Crack today. After a couple minutes of considerable effort and mild internal panic I managed to stem way out to the tree and get enough weight off the stuck leg to straighten it almost vertically, and pop the thing lose by dropping it down and under the constriction that held it in place. Very counterintuitive, and a lucky move that I wasn't really trying to do, but it worked. Thankfully. Something to keep in mind if you ever find yourself in a similar predicament. My knee is rather colorful all the way around this evening, front, sides, and back.
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« Last Edit: January 30, 2012, 11:26:54 AM by Willoughby »
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scuffy b
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« Reply #6 on: January 30, 2012, 12:06:02 PM » |
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The stuck knee in Generator is quite an honored and honorable tradition.
I've been there for it and have heard a number of stories.
Yours sounds like one of the quicker escapes.
Good job getting an early start to your season!
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Willoughby
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« Reply #7 on: January 30, 2012, 02:17:39 PM » |
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It was stuck alright, and I'd read a few accounts myself. That whole thread of the shenanigans at Facelift a few years back flashed through my mind, and I thought I might be royally screwed. I'm just thankful for my flexibility, and that tree!!!
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1429
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« Reply #8 on: January 30, 2012, 03:02:26 PM » |
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Yes, a time honored tradition indeed! And be glad you're not this guy! He was leading an ow on the creek alternating leading knees, when he dislocated his patella, and tacoed a cruciate (?), had to have surgery, and spend a night in the hospital.. He remained remarkably upbeat, for the remainder of his trip! This is the day he got out of the hospital!  |
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« Last Edit: January 30, 2012, 03:04:03 PM by Jaybro »
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #9 on: January 30, 2012, 05:57:58 PM » |
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i knew there was a reason I had been avoiding OW for most of my adult life
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scuffy b
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« Reply #10 on: January 30, 2012, 06:11:22 PM » |
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Alternating leading knees should only be done by highly certified experts under close medical supervision.
You'll be OK, Mungie. We'll have you smiling in the Wide this year, really.
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RussWalling
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« Reply #11 on: January 30, 2012, 07:41:49 PM » |
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Talking to the stuck extremity seems to do wonders. Everyone I've ever seen stuck has talked to whatever was stuck, and in 100% of the cases, they got unstuck.
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
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« Reply #12 on: January 30, 2012, 07:45:57 PM » |
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"come on baby, do it for me...."
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #13 on: January 31, 2012, 06:41:57 PM » |
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mere talking is ok?
or is begging requisite?
these are the mental preparation techniques of every good mountaineer!
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scuffy b
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« Reply #14 on: January 31, 2012, 06:49:38 PM » |
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No begging when my knee was stuck in The Bin.
Calm, cool, rational, logical discussion between me and my knee.
That's the way we roll.
I reminded my knee that Werner was just up the road,
and that nobody had ever died in Yosemite from having a stuck knee.
Together, we convinced The Bin to stop fucking with me.
Later, I told Werner about it.
The Bin? What the fornicate is that?
A Bruce Morris climb down at Arch Rock.
I never do Morris climbs. They're all heaps!
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RussWalling
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« Reply #15 on: January 31, 2012, 06:51:27 PM » |
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hahaha on the Morris dig!
I never talked to my foot in Paisano.... that is probably why it took 45 minutes to get it out.
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Willoughby
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« Reply #16 on: January 31, 2012, 10:35:54 PM » |
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I think I'm going to keep some Astroglide in my climbing pack from now on. You never know.
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1429
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« Reply #17 on: January 31, 2012, 10:46:45 PM » |
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Useful in all too many situations...
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