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Author Topic: WideBoyz tick list  (Read 4312 times)
RussWalling
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Wide Zombie
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WWW
« on: December 04, 2011, 12:50:10 PM »

Nice outing!

http://wideboyz.blogspot.com/2011/12/final-count-and-whats-next.html
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Wilber
5.10c OW
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Posts: 103



« Reply #1 on: December 06, 2011, 12:29:59 PM »

Seriously.  They killed it.  

I still think their grading is seriously wack though.  They spent three days on Eight Ounces, and only Pete managed to send it.  Despite that, the things that they did that were significantly more difficult just in terms of logistics (traveling, having to rope up, etc.), and which they did in a day or two, are supposedly anywhere from a little harder to WAY harder.  I really did like climbing with those boys and I wish them well in their future adventures, but that kind of lack of integrity is unfortunate.  I guess a little boulder out in Wyoming put up by some "kid", which stands alone as the only one (to my knowledge) that got away from Tom based solely on the fact that it was too hard for him to do in three days, is not noteworthy.  I don't know if that is the media pushing it's own agenda or if the media is just trying to appeal to the people.  Whichever it is though, it is LAME.  This is compounded by the fact that neither of them has done anything to clear the record themselves.  They really maintain that something they could kick the crap out of in two days, then come back and redpoint with sparse gear, is three consecutive sections of rock climbing that were as hard as or harder than a boulder problem right off the ground with a nice safe fall that took one of them three days of effort to send and the other one couldn't do.  I'm really trying to be nothing but congratulatory here, but I just can't do it.
« Last Edit: December 06, 2011, 12:52:28 PM by Wilber » Logged
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
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Posts: 1496



« Reply #2 on: December 06, 2011, 01:34:38 PM »

Awww, someone got theiw feewings huwt....

Can you really read that over Justin, without feeling embarrassed for yourself? Get some self respect!
« Last Edit: December 10, 2011, 09:28:00 AM by Jaybro » Logged
scuffy b
JayBro Status
*****
Posts: 427


« Reply #3 on: December 06, 2011, 07:54:45 PM »

They're expressing opinions.
You act as if they are in possession of indisputable facts and lying about it.
It's freaking climb rating, for Pete's sake.
Don't be so attached.
Someone doesn't agree with something you rated, you think it's a lack of integrity.
Get real.
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Wilber
5.10c OW
***
Posts: 103



« Reply #4 on: December 06, 2011, 11:49:00 PM »

It is not that they don't agree with me about the rating.  I call it V9, and they called it 13b, which are close enough for government work.  And yes, it is a lack of integrity.  Eight Ounces solidly bouted one of them, and IMO they have clearly shown that they are the best at the genre right now.  For them not to give a nod of respect to the one that got away while proclaiming to advance the standard a full number grade beyond what was yet done is very disrespectful.  Considering they got money to do this trip, and money wants a result besides some little OW boulder in Vedauwoo being as difficult as the legendary "Century CracK", I would call it a lack of integrity.  Tom told me to my face that he felt Eight Ounces had to be one of the hardest bits of OW climbing in the world, so all I am asking is that be made public knowledge by him.  WTF is the problem?  You act like I am asking for something unreasonable.  Am I, Scuffy? 
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Jaybro
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Posts: 1496



« Reply #5 on: December 07, 2011, 12:10:58 AM »

"bouted"?
How about it didn't hold his interest enough to bother to return to when there were actual climbs to choose from and it had stoped raining?

It's just an eight foot boulder problem, after all.
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Wilber
5.10c OW
***
Posts: 103



« Reply #6 on: December 07, 2011, 12:47:13 AM »

Yes, Jay, "bouted".  He told me so himself.  It held his interest long enough to go there three days.  Every other OW they did went down onsight, flash, or on the first try or two of day two, and they did almost all of the hard OW's in the U.S. in short order.  So, sounds like he wanted to send the rig.  It would be nice if he could clear the air on this himself, as folks like you don't seem to deal with reality all that well, and that might actually be real enough for you.  Again, WTF is the problem?  Is this personal with you or something, Jay?  Why do you care so much which grade he assigns to my boulder relative to other climbing objectives? 

« Last Edit: December 07, 2011, 12:56:48 AM by Wilber » Logged
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
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Posts: 1496



« Reply #7 on: December 07, 2011, 08:25:55 AM »

Did I say anything at all about caring about it's rating? Just pointed out that there were bigger fish to fry. It's a cool problem, they gave you a compliment. You could be flattered with that. Why are you so needy?
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scuffy b
JayBro Status
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Posts: 427


« Reply #8 on: December 07, 2011, 09:44:59 AM »

I believe that telling you your problem is one of the hardest bits of OW climbing in the world is an act of high integrity.
I believe that emotional attachment to a climb's numeric rating is a mug's game.
I believe that there is no strong correlation between being a great climber and being a good person.

You wrote:
"I'm really trying to be nothing but congratulatory here, but I just can't do it"
and you wrote:
"You act like I am asking for something unreasonable. Am I, Scuffy?"
Asking me to believe that first quote may in fact be unreasonable. You understand hard effort. You can do difficult things if you try.

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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
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Posts: 1496



« Reply #9 on: December 07, 2011, 10:14:07 AM »

I wouldn't even know the rating if you hadn't mentioned it.

You just better get used to it, he's not going to give you a public blowjob to acknowledge your greatness no matter how many tantrums you continue to throw or how much you pout.
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WideZac
5.7 Flare
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Posts: 31


« Reply #10 on: December 07, 2011, 10:52:35 AM »

people get motivated by different things.  8' of climbing an awkward way up a small shelf on the way to Worm Drive doesn't hold my interest for 5 minutes.

I heard they had some trouble on the Momentum crack.  I hope they told the staff there that it was wonderful.  Or maybe they didn't care to put lots of effort into an indoor crack with quickdraws.

different strokes.
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
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Posts: 1496



« Reply #11 on: December 07, 2011, 11:35:24 AM »

I don't know if they told the staff, but they told Mike they thought it was very cool, and that ther should be a bunch of strong local wide crack climbers what with that, to train on!

Say Zac, if I blow through town, think I can check out t that indoor inversion Dealio?  I also wanna get back on that momentum crack!
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caughtinside
5.7 Flare
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Posts: 43


« Reply #12 on: December 07, 2011, 12:43:54 PM »

Quite a list!  Real fun to follow this trip and see some great photos.

Wilber--don't know who the hell you are but you sound super bent about some silly boulder problem.  You're making quite a jump there going right after someone's integrity.  It also makes you look like a hell of an rectum, well done.
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WideZac
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Posts: 31


« Reply #13 on: December 07, 2011, 09:57:05 PM »


Say Zac, if I blow through town, think I can check out that indoor inversion Dealio?  I also wanna get back on that momentum crack!

totally.  We called of Wide Wednesday tonight to tighten up some bolts and reinforce the frame.  I  might try to squeeze something else in before we are back to the schedule on monday.   I should be in town most of the holidays.  Just keep me posted.
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tomPR
5.10c OW
***
Posts: 114


« Reply #14 on: December 12, 2011, 09:37:02 AM »

Justin,

Your post does slightly surprise me. We went climbing together quite a few times over our time in Vedauwoo and I'd have considered you a mate, but honestly, a few of your statements are what I'd expect from some keyboard hero who I've never met. I'm happy to debate grades and the what not, but to make public slurs on mine and Pete's character is frankly a poor show - and somewhat unprofessional considering that we both share a common sponsor.

Talk to me like a man and climber and I'll treat you like one.

Tom
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Wilber
5.10c OW
***
Posts: 103



« Reply #15 on: October 27, 2012, 09:19:51 PM »

Tom,

How is it manning up to disrespect someones hard work in order to assert yourself as THE industry authority of some obscure form of climbing so you can market yourself to ten people in an attempt to "become something".  Seriously, I ask again, what is the big deal?  If it is just rocks, and just climbing, why does it matter to say how challenging something actually is?  As you said, we share a climbing sponsor, so whats up?  Need I get in line behind The Great Tom Randall Offwidth God Of The Universe, or can we just be a couple of guys who like to climb rocks?  I'm not the one who has lost sight.  Keep in mind that all I am asking for is a nod of respect (just a nice public "yep, that's as hard as any other OW I have SERIOUSLY tried or done") for putting up a problem that you tried seriously and couldn't do, THE ONLY ONE OF YOUR TRIP.  You can keep your money, and your fame.  Just to point this out, admitting you made a mistake: 

Does not mean that you didn't come here and climb almost all the hardest offwidths in short order.  It does not mean that you are not a great climber.  It does not mean I am a better climber.  It does not mean you don't deserve a big congratulations for your contributions to the sport. It does not mean I have no respect for you. 




Jeeze, isn't mutual respect so much better than this?  Too bad you mucked that one up...       
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tomPR
5.10c OW
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Posts: 114


« Reply #16 on: October 28, 2012, 01:17:09 PM »

Hey Justin,

Good to hear from you - hope you're climbing climbing some good stuff? A few points for you - hopefully of help.

1. Eight Ounces to freedom is the hardest offwidth boulder problem I tried in the States.
2. There were 2 problems I couldn't do after many attempts - 8 ounces and Life Without Parole. Both great problems!
3. No one needs to stand in line behind me. We're all just climbers.

Cheers

Tom

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Wilber
5.10c OW
***
Posts: 103



« Reply #17 on: October 30, 2012, 10:22:56 AM »

Solid Tom!  Nice job comparing a problem you tried distractedly and then walked away from with no interest of sending, with a problem that was on your lifetime ticklist (at least that is what you told me before you came over).  There is always at least one pesky VnotMyHardestProblem we can't do somewhere, that I would not argue with.  However you compare that with your three days of repeated failure on Eight Ounces.  Solid buddy.  This is the kind of grading with an agenda I am talking about. 

They are just rocks, and the vast majority of people think we are weird for climbing them.  Among that small minority of people who actually like climbing rocks, a very small minority of them like the type of climbing that we do. Again, why is it such a big deal to admit that a little boulder kicked your ass and is as challenging as big bad Century Crack?  Do you actually think that there is some title that you are defending called Offwidth God Of The Universe?  If so, lol.  I used to like OW more than any other type of climbing if for nothing else because they used to attract real people...

This ones named for you then, Tom: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-stone-cold-stunna/107682618

The Stone Cold Stunner is Stone Cold Steve Austins bad ass finishing move.  Fucking mandrama.
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tomPR
5.10c OW
***
Posts: 114


« Reply #18 on: October 30, 2012, 01:32:25 PM »

You're mental. Absolutely mental.

You asked for me to acknowledge that 8ozTF was the hardest offwidth boulder problem I tried. I did.

Now, get off your crack pipe and go speak to Steve Petro.
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goatboy
Did "Cream" naked
****
Posts: 355


« Reply #19 on: November 01, 2012, 04:17:06 PM »

Wilbur, maybe if you took a shovel and dug out the dirt right below 8oz the rest of us knuckle draggers could actually fit underneath it to climb it, jus sayin'. My sponser awaits yur reply.
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pjw
5.7 Flare
**
Posts: 28


« Reply #20 on: November 03, 2012, 09:50:32 AM »

Hey up

flipping love reading the stuff on here, it's well classic Smiley

this is for you Justin - like Tom said I thought 8 Ounces was the hardest Boulder problem I did in the States (just mine and Toms opinions). But now you seem to want Tom to say it was as hard as Century?

Well... having done both climbs myself, I thought one was 13b (a very hard boulder problem, as said again, the hardest one I did (just my opinion)), one was 14b (also very hard, the hardest thing we did on the trip by a substantial way (also just my opinion). When you've done both, you can let us no your opinion.

hopefully this is a public nod of respect for you, it has been said 3 times now on a public forum that we thought 8 Ounces was hard

Good luck, stay psyched
over and out
Pete
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Wilber
5.10c OW
***
Posts: 103



« Reply #21 on: November 04, 2012, 02:00:23 PM »

Pete,

Yes, just spit it out that it is as hard as Century Crack or any other offwidth you have tried or done, route or boulder.  Straight up.  You worked on 8 oz. for three days before you dismissed my sequence as too hard and then sent with different beta, beta which you told me took you three days to work out and refine.  Then you guys claim Century Crack is a full number grade harder, despite the fact that you both walked it second go. 

Now Century Crack requires that you drive hundreds of miles to it from anything else, drag a bunch of cams to and up it, rap into a gully to get sarted, etc, etc.  Eight Ounces on the oher hand is a fifteen minute or less walk from the car in an area littered with other worthy climbing objectives, and trying it multiple times is logistically as easy as rolling out of bed in the morning.  The point here is that, if Century Crack was truly a full number grade harder, this should be reflected by the fact that it took you significantly more focused and purposeful effort, and thats just not the case here.  In fact the complete opposite is true.  Kinda funny. 

Now despite the fact that Eight Ounces took you an extra day and a half, it's logistically easier to get to, it's WAY easier logistically to try it multiple times in any given day, and it's short stature means there is no psychological fear factor playing in at all, you still came to the laughable conclusion that Century Crack is the equvalent of climbing 8 oz. THREE TIMES BACK TO BACK!  LOL!   

Well classic indeed.

You guys also nearly got sauced on Mason Earles The Price of Evil, a pitch that is clearly at or very near the current top standard for offwidth.  Again, you guys acted like there was something weird going on there, and not that the thing is actually hard.  Additionally, you claimed to come here seeking out the hardest offwidths, yet you declined the invite/opportunity to go see what Bob Scarpelli called his hardest route, and you completely ignored Joe DeLucas seventy foot roof crack Wandas Pink Tacos in Hueco, which when it gets repeated will likely be confirmed to be the top standard, Century Crack or no Century Crack.

I really want to know why it is such a big deal to admit the truth here.  Clearly you have no reason for saying Century Crack is that hard relative to everything else you tried or did while here, so what is the big deal?  I'll tell you guys what, even if you admit that 8 oz. is as hard as anything else you have tried, I will still hold you up as the Forever Kings of Wyde, NBD.  I don't want your title.  When I put 8 oz. up I called it one of the hardest OW's in the world.  I caught no end of excrement for that.  Just clear the fucking air, guys.  Whats the big deal?         
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Wilber
5.10c OW
***
Posts: 103



« Reply #22 on: November 04, 2012, 02:03:33 PM »

Also, Tom, Steve has my number.  Ha ha if you went crying to him over this...
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pjw
5.7 Flare
**
Posts: 28


« Reply #23 on: November 06, 2012, 11:16:38 AM »

ok
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
*
Posts: 1496



« Reply #24 on: November 13, 2012, 01:34:24 PM »

Hoh man I'm late to the party! 11 months in the making! speaking of...I'm making popcorn anyone else  want some?

8 ounces, that just got sent by a guy who had never inverted before. Squeezo, details? It sounded like a wild story!

I'm going back on it this summer to attempt the old guy record!

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caughtinside
5.7 Flare
**
Posts: 43


« Reply #25 on: November 26, 2012, 06:12:35 PM »

holy crap!  Haven't checked this for a while.  Some real entertainment from the Wilbur. 

Pathetic.
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WideJake
5.6 Fist
*
Posts: 6


« Reply #26 on: July 17, 2013, 08:12:15 PM »

Whoa.  This flame-fest has alerted me to the existence of Eight Ounces.  Pretty sure I'm going to flash it this weekend now.
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
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Posts: 1496



« Reply #27 on: July 18, 2013, 01:02:18 AM »

You gonna be here this weekend?
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
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Posts: 1496



« Reply #28 on: December 03, 2013, 03:48:06 PM »

[photoid=333378]


* image.jpg (20.31 KB, 384x384 - viewed 246 times.)
« Last Edit: December 05, 2013, 10:58:03 AM by Jaybro » Logged
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
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Posts: 1496



« Reply #29 on: December 05, 2013, 10:58:20 AM »

[photoid=333603]


* image.jpg (67.29 KB, 548x658 - viewed 240 times.)
« Last Edit: December 05, 2013, 10:03:13 PM by Jaybro » Logged
billcoe
5.6 Fist
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Posts: 12


« Reply #30 on: December 17, 2013, 12:54:33 PM »

It is interesting, when you google Justin Edl, up pops wikipedia. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Justin_Edl Which list out like this. Bold is mine, the 1 in there on Wiki is a link to the Supertopo bitchfest. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2283772&tn=0&mr=0

Quote
Justin Edl
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to: navigation, search
Wiki letter w.svg
   This article is an orphan, as no other articles link to it. Please introduce links to this page from related articles; suggestions may be available. (August 2013)

Justin Edl (born 1981 in Laramie, Wyoming) is a leading American rock crack climber. Edl began climbing at the age of 18. While climbing near Laramie, Wyoming, he completed his Bachelor of Science in Mathematics at the University of Wyoming. He has established his skills in several types of climbing, including bouldering, sport climbing, and hard traditional climbing. He has made many challenging first ascents, primarily in the Vedauwoo rock climbing area in Southeast Wyoming. Edl has traveled extensively throughout the American west and completed a number of difficult climbs. He has had to defend himself from Anti-semite charges from many other climbers on the climbing web site "Supertopo". Which he denys. [1] He is a strong advocate of off-width crack climbing and bouldering and has done much to develop and promote the popularity of this specialized form of rock climbing in Wyoming and beyond.

Contents

    1 Notable ascents
    2 Sponsorships
    3 References
    4 External links

Notable ascents

    2004: Eight Ounces to Freedom, 5.13-, Vedauwoo, Wyoming[1]
    2004: It, 5.12+, Vedauwoo, Wyoming
    2004: Squat, 5.12, Vedauwoo, Wyoming[2]
    2004: Trip Master Monkey, 5.12, Vedauwoo, Wyoming[3]
    2005: Big Bobís Big Wedge, 5.12, Joshua Tree, California[4]
    2005: Deliverance, V8, Yosemite Valley, California[5]
    2005: The Process of Belief, 5.13- FA, Vedauwoo, Wyoming[6]
    2006: The Crackhouse, 5.13-, Moab, Utah[7]
    2006: Monsters Incorporated, 5.13-, Vedauwoo, Wyoming[8][9]
    2006: The New World Order, 5.12, Moab, Utah[10]
    2007: Equilibrium, 14- FA, Vedauwoo, Wyoming[11]
    2007: FUDG Crack, V9, Poudre Canyon, Colorado[12]
    2007: The Red Snapper, 5.13, Vedauwoo, Wyoming[13]
    2007: Simiantics, 5.11 FA, Vedauwoo, Wyoming[14]
    2007: Trench Warfare, 5.12+, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah[15]
    2007: The Vedajuicer, 5.14- FA, Vedauwoo, Wyoming[16]
    2009: Home on the Range, 5.14- FA, Vedauwoo, Wyoming[17][18]

Sponsorships

    Wild Country[19]
    Red Chili[20]

References

    Jump up ^ Mountain Project - Eight Ounces to Freedom
    Jump up ^ Mountain Project - Squat
    Jump up ^ Mountain Project - Trip Master Monkey
    Jump up ^ Mountain Project - Big Bob's Big Wedge
    Jump up ^ Mountain Project - Deliverance
    Jump up ^ Mountain Project - The Process of Belief
    Jump up ^ Mountain Project - Crack House
    Jump up ^ Mountain Project - Monsters Inc.
    Jump up ^ http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/monstersincorporated
    Jump up ^ Mountain Project - The New World Order
    Jump up ^ Mountain Project - Equilibrium
    Jump up ^ RockClimbing.com - FUDG Crack
    Jump up ^ Mountain Project - Red Snapper
    Jump up ^ Mountain Project - Simiantics
    Jump up ^ Mountain Project - Trench Warfare
    Jump up ^ Mountain Project - Vedajuicer
    Jump up ^ Mountain Project - Home on the Range
    Jump up ^ http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/new_514_crack_in_vedauwoo_wyoming/
    Jump up ^ http://wld.brtest.co.uk/Community/Sponsees/JustinEdl/
    Jump up ^ http://redchili.de/en/core/pages/athletes.html

External links

    Justin Edl's contributions on Mountain Project
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