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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
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« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2009, 04:18:13 AM » |
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How Greenies avoid using Crack technique? (only first part would load)
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Willoughby
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« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2009, 11:05:56 AM » |
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That took ~ a dozen tries to load - weird. Anyway, I found myself trying to go right side in on Bottomless Topless (Snowshed, Donner) last summer, and it closes out so quickly at the top that I just couldn't make the reach to escape. Could not get my chest any higher. I essentially did exactly what Luebben describes, by camming my hips in the chimney, ratcheting upwards, and working my torso further and further out. I was almost dead horizontal by the time I got to the top (just a couple of "moves"). It worked really well, but felt quite strange with my whole torso hanging out of the chimney, like I could pivot out at any moment. And I had no idea what my feet were up to, just pushing on the back wall, which wouldn't work in a pure, deep chimney. But, I suspect it would feel pretty secure in a deeper chimney. All that said, on that particular route it's far more straightforward to just go left side in instead and escape out to the other side from lower down.
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joergB
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« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2009, 01:20:03 PM » |
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Nothing special. Climbing down a chimney of this size I would also do using just shoulders and hips. Ascending I prefer foot stack and maybe chicken wing.
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
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« Reply #4 on: May 02, 2009, 05:39:46 AM » |
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In dozens of ascents; lead, TR, solo of bottomless topless, I have always gone right side in.
Does this technique allude to locking the upperbody, pulling out the hips then placing them higher then moving the upper?
-Henry Barber described it in the early 70's, I live by it. Now it his renamed to pat Luebben on the back?
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« Last Edit: May 02, 2009, 12:54:47 PM by Jaybro »
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Willoughby
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« Reply #5 on: May 02, 2009, 09:56:30 AM » |
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In dozens of ascents; lead, TR, solo of bottomless topless, I have always gone right side in.
Really? All the way through? Right side in makes perfect sense 'til it closes out and you have to escape. We must be built differently. |
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
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« Reply #6 on: May 02, 2009, 12:55:51 PM » |
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i guess I have done the bottom part left side in.
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
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« Reply #7 on: May 02, 2009, 01:00:08 PM » |
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I forget more than I remember, and have been know to be full of sheeit. We should just meet up there sometime and climb it and see what side is in.
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Willoughby
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« Reply #8 on: May 02, 2009, 05:28:39 PM » |
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THREAD DRIFT!!!! Anyway, I don't think it matters too, too much which way you face for the bottom bit, but sooner or later, the thing closes out Bombay-style, and it's an impossibly long reach up to the left, at least for me. The sensible thing to do is just whip around to left-side in and grab the positive edge on that crack over to the right. Here's some shots I just nicked off the web, of somebody doing exactly that:   And Jaybro, I'd be honored to climb it with you this summer. Maybe we can see how many variations we can come up with, including the "Sidewinder." |
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
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« Reply #9 on: May 02, 2009, 05:45:39 PM » |
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Clearly, I have never looked as fetching as that, doing it, any side in!
still not clear on this sidewinder (also a route in Pinnacle peak, Scottsdale Az, known to harbor bats) business.
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« Last Edit: May 02, 2009, 05:48:14 PM by Jaybro »
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brutusofwyde
5.9 Squeeze
Posts: 57
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« Reply #10 on: May 02, 2009, 10:59:07 PM » |
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Sidewinder:
New name for an old technique,
Always called it hip bridging, first climb that taught it to me was Ipecac in JT.
Good tool, handy to have in the library.
Brutus
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excap
Guest
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« Reply #11 on: May 28, 2010, 09:13:54 PM » |
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Man, I'm missing Brutus.
That guy, though he'd deny it, was a force.
Ah, Hell, I'm just dredging the past, huh?All good, no matter.
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RussWalling
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« Reply #12 on: May 29, 2010, 07:40:53 AM » |
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+1 Skully....
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excap
Guest
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« Reply #13 on: May 29, 2010, 09:00:57 PM » |
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Lotta good stuff in the W I D E T&T section.
I might yet learn something. Save some green on Mercurachrome, or what ever that stuff's called.
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #14 on: May 31, 2010, 10:44:04 PM » |
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+1 here too Skully. No worries.
To the greater goodness and teacher that is the wide...
Anyone done this one these ones?
evidence removed
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« Last Edit: June 04, 2010, 04:34:31 PM by mungeclimber »
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #15 on: June 01, 2010, 05:38:20 PM » |
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found out this morning via an email that the upper one been done. but not much else.
this pic will self destruct in 1 minute...
evidence removed
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« Last Edit: June 04, 2010, 04:34:48 PM by mungeclimber »
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #16 on: June 02, 2010, 09:55:52 PM » |
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correction, not the upper one. one of the lower ones.
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squiddo
5.6 Fist
Posts: 3
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« Reply #17 on: June 04, 2010, 01:12:28 PM » |
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MUnge- LRC?
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #18 on: June 04, 2010, 04:35:16 PM » |
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
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« Reply #19 on: March 04, 2012, 12:44:58 AM » |
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Oh, sidewinder technique! Where you get deep in the crack, raise your feed more or less as high as your shoulders and scoot up, one side or the other first. Makes quicker work of a size that can be downright tedious when approached vertically.
Photos to follow...
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