pjw
5.7 Flare
Posts: 28
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« on: August 24, 2011, 01:08:19 PM » |
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Just wondering the best guide to get for the area? a definitive guide for just Vedauwoo would be the one I'm looking for the most. The guide that covers every wide crack in sight (route and boulder) would be ideal  what are the recommendations? and also where can we get the guide book from? is it available on the internet and I can order it online? or are there outdoor shops in Laramie where I can pick it up from whilst I'm out there? thanks for your help, really psyched to get out there now cheers Pete |
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Ed Hartouni
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« Reply #1 on: August 24, 2011, 07:56:10 PM » |
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I've got two:
Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, Wyoming by Robert B. Kelman ISBN 0964064545
which is the one I used the most, and
Fat Crack Country by Zach Orenczak ISBN 0974653209
there are several places in Laramie that might have one or both:
Big Hoss Mountain Sports
Atmosphere Mountain Works
All Terrain Sports
but others might chime in...
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wideload
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« Reply #2 on: August 25, 2011, 04:06:02 PM » |
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Pick a book, any book... the one at the top I got in the last couple of months, but in Joshua Tree, which likely doesn't help you. The Voo Zach Orenczak & Rachel Lynn 2011 ISBN 978-0-9832427-0-3  Fat Crack Country Zach Orenczak 2003  Heel and Toe The Climbers of Greater Vedauwoo, Wyoming 1994  Cracks Unlimited Layne Kopischka 1987  Crack Country Revisited Layne Kopischka 1982  Crack Country Climbing Guide To Vedauwoo 1977 John Garson, Layne Kopischika, Gary Pousch  |
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« Last Edit: August 25, 2011, 04:07:33 PM by wideload »
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1429
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« Reply #3 on: August 25, 2011, 06:59:01 PM » |
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I got'em all; the ones wideload mentions and more. All the way back to the '71 Jim Halfpenny guide.
Zach's new one, 'The Voo', is the one to get!
Big Hoss is out of business. Cross country connection (free wrestling! Just ask) Atmosphere, and ATS in Laramie have it. The first two areon the same block. ATS is two? Blocks down grand.
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« Last Edit: August 25, 2011, 07:13:32 PM by Jaybro »
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1429
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« Reply #4 on: August 25, 2011, 08:19:56 PM » |
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Plus, 'The Voo,' has a picture of Jammer in it!
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Wilber
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« Reply #5 on: August 25, 2011, 09:17:21 PM » |
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Awww, Jay won't even tell you that there is another guide. Why is that, Jay? You couldn't possibly not know about that one. What's the deal? This is the one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0964064545/103-2801092-2821446 Zachs book is available here: http://extremeangles.com/index.php/our-books/fat-crack-countryFolks that have used both guides tell me they like Kelman's better because they say it is more user friendly for finding where in the book certain climbs are described. However, Zach's book is more recent and has better coverage. I have not heard anyone complain about the maps or approach descriptions in either (except for Kelmans occasional use of furlongs for distance) so I would assume they are roughly equal in that respect. So, I guess it depends on which things are important to you. Looking forward to your guys arrival! Also, Jay, who is jammer, and what does he "jam"? |
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1429
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« Reply #6 on: August 26, 2011, 07:11:19 AM » |
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Um, already mentioned? & Out of print? you're right, they only pictured the first edition. Obsolete (7 years old, & he's writing a new one) especially now with the new Zach book-which could have better directions-out.
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« Last Edit: August 26, 2011, 03:06:52 PM by Jaybro »
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1429
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« Reply #7 on: August 26, 2011, 09:12:01 AM » |
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'jammer' is an anonymous troll who speaks in the manner of Justin Edl.
Being annonymous, it's impossible to tell if he/she has ever jammed anything. Needs a self-penned wiki page or something for credibility....
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tomPR
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« Reply #8 on: August 26, 2011, 12:03:27 PM » |
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Cool, thanks Ed, Wideload, Jaybro, Wilber! I'll see what's most readily available in the shops out of those top 2.
And..... amazing covers those over the years!! Great images and super classic. Wish we had more guide covers like that over here.
Only 3 more weeks. Aaaagghh!
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1429
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« Reply #9 on: August 26, 2011, 01:19:25 PM » |
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Note the spelling in the blue Kopischika book! I didn't notice the typo till Layne pointed it out to me. That alone should make it a collector's item.
And speaking of collectors (wideload) no collection is complete without a copy of 'The Cragsman' by Bob Scarpelli! Mid/late 80's the first guide of outlying areas, Blair, behind Reynolds etc since 1/2€
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« Last Edit: August 26, 2011, 01:23:23 PM by Jaybro »
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Will
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« Reply #10 on: August 27, 2011, 10:32:39 AM » |
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I think you want both the new Zach "Voo" guide and the last red cover Kelman...that way when you get spanked on something, you can refer to the one with the higher rating (I recall quite a few routes with big discrepancies of rating between the two books..Left Tube comes to mind).
Besides, they're not that spendy in the grand scheme and with different quality of directions, descriptions, and photos it's fun to have both.
The bouldering guide, which I believe Ed has a copy of, is pretty decent. Directions and descriptions could be better, but it got me to everything I sought without too much excess wandering about. Fairly cheap too as I recall. Although I never could decipher WTF was supposed to be happening with a couple problems like IIRC The Warden where if you climbed it as it was made out in the guide, you'd be soloing ~5.12 over a 30' drop at the end.
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1429
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« Reply #11 on: August 27, 2011, 11:40:23 AM » |
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Um you wanna go he other direction on the warden, will...
Though I'd def recommend that bouldering guide, I am currently lost trying to find dirty deeds with it. Vedauwoo land of Adventure!
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Will
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« Reply #13 on: August 28, 2011, 11:53:48 AM » |
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Um you wanna go he other direction on the warden, will...
I just figured "hey, them Vedauwoo boys (and girls) are HARD". |
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1429
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« Reply #14 on: August 28, 2011, 06:50:49 PM » |
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I did break my foot there this summer......
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Hoseyb
5.7 Flare
Posts: 39
Somewhat Keen
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« Reply #15 on: August 29, 2011, 05:30:24 AM » |
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Tom / Pete, they have the bouldering guide gathering dust in V12, I'm sure you could give them a bell.
Hose
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tomPR
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« Reply #16 on: August 30, 2011, 01:38:56 PM » |
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Thanks for the heads up Hosey. Don't think we'll be bouldering much though. Too many routes to do in our limited time!!! Although I'm sure we'll get dragged down the dark corridor of crack boulders at some stage if Justin is anywhere....  |
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wideload
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« Reply #17 on: August 31, 2011, 12:07:10 PM » |
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I didn't have the Kelman book, yet, but found it online for like $9.
Score!!
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excap
Guest
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« Reply #19 on: August 31, 2011, 02:29:43 PM » |
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Ol Munge is there right now!  |
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1429
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« Reply #20 on: September 01, 2011, 12:37:07 AM » |
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I favor the one in Vedauwoo itself, same price. I feel better leaving my stuff there than on the meth frontier.
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1429
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« Reply #21 on: September 01, 2011, 10:17:33 PM » |
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About time for a munge update. In an email he said he ran into Bob.
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #22 on: September 03, 2011, 02:44:13 PM » |
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camped on the 700 road, left a chair and gallon of water showing I'd be back, well, apparently finders keepers out on the range. I no longer have that travel chair.  otherwise, killer trip. just went thru some pics, should be loading some up soon. Ved is an amazing place. Like Joshua Tree, but with way more wide cracks and pines and aspens. got my ass handed to me. ratings are true, which means everywhere else is soft. I liken the ratings to Devils Tower. No single move is harder than rated, but often every move is at the grade. Satterfelds was super fun climbing, as was Ed's crack. Friday Follies was a little too run out for my meager abilities this trip. Tore my calf muscle trying to stem on Fall Out day before yesterday. I did say hi to Bob, but didn't recognize him until his climbing partners for the day mentioned climbing with a Bob that knew the area really well. So I asked, and sure enough, the gruff looking guy was there with them. How old is Bob? Guy looks strong as an ox. They pointed us to a new 5.8 slab problem left of Cornelius. 3 bolts with hangers. Needs rings, or rap off Cornelius. |
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #23 on: September 04, 2011, 10:48:43 PM » |
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 GoBig on Satter... |
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #24 on: September 12, 2011, 10:00:56 PM » |
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 GoBig on Fallout |
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