Northeast Wide?

[lagoy117]

So I am pretty new to the whole wide climbing game but what little experience I have has got me wanting more. My only problem is that I am living out here in New England which, from what I can tell, is a little lacking in the OW department. Does anyone have any suggestions? Vertigo is already on my list but that is about it.

Thanks

[goatboy]

Do you have any carpentry skills?
You could build something out of 2x12's or search the forum for the OWmachines made by scuffy, zander, and gary carpenter.

[base104]

This is about the only question here that I can answer:

Road Trip

Hook up with someone on the next rampage. OW technique is so bizarre and unintuitive that you would have to be Einstein to figure it out.

I remember when Russ drug a bunch of us weenies over to Bad Ass Momma. After seeing it fired pronto I could see the basics. Then Russ would yack instructions to the rest of the climbers and got everyone up it.

If I hadn't had that afternoon of instruction, I would have looked at the thing and considered it impossible, when instead, it was nigh bomber.

Never did much OW, but I did take that technique and do things at parties like throw a handstack between a couple of boards in the rafters and crank pullups off of it. I thought it would impress women, but I never could impress women. Smell or something. Perfect stacks are like perfect handjams.

Why try to reinvent the wheel?

[mungeclimber]

Perfect stacks are like perfect handjams.

quotable


and one day I will find such a stack.

[base104]

True!!!

At an old DZ, they had a building to pack in and all of that. They never drywalled in the ceiling, and the cross beams of the rafters were 1X12's or something. They were perfectly sized. I would just put one hand flat and then a fist facing towards me and do as many pullups as I wanted or could....which unfortunately was always less than five.

It was a fantastic party trick.

I have small mits, so BAM fit me like a glove. Do it in front of a gym kid and they will think that you are Houdini.

You should see Dale Bard on an off sized finger crack. Unreal. It is all about turning body parts into cams. He could run laps on things that I couldn't get my feet off of the ground, despite patient instruction and months of trying. It is like getting your fingers slammed in a car door over and over. Maybe Heroin would help.

Nahhh....you could handle the pain fer sure, but you wouldn't be too motivated.

[David Aguasca]

lagoy,

I had a similar conundrum when I lived in New England...offwidths don't seem to happen there! They do exist, though:

Vertigo, Cannon
Peanut Gallery Flake, Cathedral Ledge (5.9)
Black Crack, Cathedral Ledge (5.10)
Last pitch variations to Diedre, Cathedral Ledge (5.10)
Leafspring, Cathedral Ledge (5.11+)

That's all I can think of for the moment. You can find beta for all those on Mountain Project.