Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
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« on: August 16, 2010, 12:03:59 PM » |
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One guidebook says "5.11c" next guidebook addition says ".11d"; impossible? Anyone, ever, done it? I know Russ and Marty have stories and photos to share... Here it as at first light (10am) last Friday. I'm taking a new interest in it, and the Eastside in general...  Earlier;  |
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« Last Edit: August 16, 2010, 02:40:34 PM by Jaybro »
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Hoseyb
5.7 Flare
Posts: 35
Somewhat Keen
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« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2010, 12:48:35 PM » |
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It says something of the obsessiveness of the members of this site that you don't have to specify which of the crack systems in the pic you are talking about...
Some roof! how much horizontal? (would give it some scale for a uke without local knowledge..)
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
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« Reply #2 on: August 16, 2010, 02:38:59 PM » |
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Those guys I mentioned upthread have photos including people, for scale...
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VLG
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« Reply #3 on: August 16, 2010, 08:17:51 PM » |
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All I remember is that when you get to the lip and jam behind the block it hits a place on your ulna, or radius, where the bone actually flexes and you go pretty much numb, instantly. Here's Mussy, giving it a go:  I think Shipoopi and Ciley have both done it, as did Steve Elia, though he used some face hold out around the roof that made the transition into the slot go pretty smoothly. But where's the fun in that? A way strong East Side ripper, Jason Lakey, recently put up a route called 'Bong Show' that's apparently to the side -- not sure which one -- of the Leary masterpiece. |
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« Last Edit: August 16, 2010, 08:19:34 PM by VLG »
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
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« Reply #4 on: August 16, 2010, 08:35:37 PM » |
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I talked to Shipoopi in mammoth Vons a few hours after I took that shot. I wish I'd thought to ask him about it.....
I don't think Cilley ever mentioned it
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426
5.7 Flare
Posts: 47
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« Reply #5 on: August 21, 2010, 07:58:23 AM » |
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I talked to Shipoopi in mammoth Vons a few hours after I took that shot. I wish I'd thought to ask him about it.....
I don't think Cilley ever mentioned it
There's a pic of Kevin Leary iirc in the "whiskey" at mammoth. I studied that thing for quite a while, expensive beer in hand, trying to glean beta. Fail... "Lost his keys"  |
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em knot
5.6 Fist
Posts: 13
5.0 flab stack
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« Reply #6 on: August 25, 2010, 12:31:29 PM » |
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Whiskey, that's where that thing is, been thinking about it.
-Jaybro Poaching Em's space, off to Pratt's, she's dragging me up it
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426
5.7 Flare
Posts: 47
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« Reply #7 on: August 26, 2010, 05:55:57 AM » |
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W.C. (the other WC) Lake Mary Road at Minaret Road Mammoth Lakes, CA 93546 Should be a giant poster on "climber's left", bottom floor.  |
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em knot
5.6 Fist
Posts: 13
5.0 flab stack
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« Reply #8 on: August 26, 2010, 07:53:02 AM » |
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Jaybro, posing-
i'll be through there today and check it out
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
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« Reply #9 on: August 26, 2010, 01:59:05 PM » |
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How about as objective for labor day weekend? I'll throw myself at it first!
Time is running, that Alaskan redhead has her eye on it, but won't be down till mid late sept at earliest....
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Will
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« Reply #10 on: August 27, 2010, 08:03:56 AM » |
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What's the story on that big roof to the right of the Gong roof?
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
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« Reply #11 on: August 27, 2010, 07:58:21 PM » |
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Dunno, Let's check it out next weekend.
I passed that whiskey bar, btw, " I tell you we must die "
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VLG
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« Reply #12 on: August 29, 2010, 04:48:32 PM » |
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The 'Bong Show' aka 'Coach Crack' that I was talking about earlier goes out the thin roof line left of the Gong Show proper. It looks really hard!
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
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« Reply #13 on: August 29, 2010, 06:21:30 PM » |
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Marty, Will, Scuffy, every body else let's try it next weekend, we got a place to stay in Paradiise!
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
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« Reply #14 on: September 02, 2010, 10:14:13 AM » |
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #15 on: September 03, 2010, 09:01:19 AM » |
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that's cool!! nice job!
curious about the bolt on the crack, for precedence sake, but I'm not familiar with the route or area that much.
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
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« Reply #16 on: September 03, 2010, 10:24:30 AM » |
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Dunno, let's check it out, Sunday
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Monteiths
5.6 Fist
Posts: 1
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« Reply #17 on: August 02, 2011, 11:12:48 PM » |
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Anybody ever make it up this?
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