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Author Topic: Jaybro, what about The Passionate Life  (Read 2354 times)
Will
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« on: October 14, 2009, 08:28:24 PM »

Stumbled across a Leversee blurb in an AAJ, said you did a route left of JCAs, "The passionate Life" at .11c ow and squeeze.

What's the story on that rig?
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Jaybro
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« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2009, 09:36:48 PM »

Two pitch. Hang a belay at a fairly obvious place that I cannot recall right now.  I think it's a horizontal jog.  4,4.5 & 5 Camalot used in the belay  First pitch is the crux, I think.  It's the prominent crack left of Wide world.
4, 4's, 2 4.5s 2, 5's and some smaller stuff (have to eyeball in situ)  There is a .12a thin handcrack variation to the first pitch.

Cool route! Probably needs a second ascent.
November or Febuary are the best months. Also check out 'A side of wide' ,10d bolt protected chimbly start left of the flake.  and Pay at the pump .12b? roof crack right by the road  two bolt rap anchor, maybe chains.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2009, 06:46:27 PM by Jaybro » Logged
pkingsbury
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« Reply #2 on: October 16, 2009, 08:34:43 AM »

Is "pay at the pump" an OW also???

Patrick
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Jaybro
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« Reply #3 on: October 16, 2009, 08:05:58 PM »

Off fist, inversion kind of deal.



there it is now, I'll try to find a shot that shows the moves better.
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #4 on: October 17, 2009, 06:07:21 PM »

I seen that move!... "A Bat's Life" on National Geographic or sum such


heh
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pkingsbury
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« Reply #5 on: October 19, 2009, 08:39:37 AM »

Those are some cool looking and sounding routes!  I'll have to check them out sometime.

Thanks for posting up the pic Jay
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Jaybro
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« Reply #6 on: December 03, 2009, 06:48:50 PM »

Recent events in my life have brought home the fact that the key to climbing 'The Passionate Life' is to celebrate your time on that route with the right partner.  It really makes all the difference!....
« Last Edit: December 03, 2009, 06:50:43 PM by Jaybro » Logged
HJ
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« Reply #7 on: December 04, 2009, 12:45:08 PM »

Where, in a general sort of sense, are these routes located. It sure as hell ain't in Wytana as it is way too cold here in November to be on rock. Just curious. Maybe I'll get there someday, wherever there is.
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Jaybro
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« Reply #8 on: December 04, 2009, 02:56:50 PM »

60 or so miles east of Fresno. on highway 160 (180?) the crag  (Patterson Bluff) is labeled in the Delorme, socal gazeteer. it's at about 3k' elevation,  south facing gets hot, early. I can give you more beta as needed.  Bring poison oak lotion.  It's in a few AAC journals with info provided by Richard Leversee. There's all kinds of new things to do there, not just offwidths.  there are grade V's even, well IV's anyway.
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Ed Hartouni
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« Reply #9 on: December 04, 2009, 09:07:53 PM »

AAJ 2002, page 207

Mt. Stewart, Patterson Bluff, Amphitheater Wall, Arctic Lake Wall, Mt. Newcomb. Mike Pennings and I established a direct line (Fallen Angels, IV 5.10+) to the west summit on the north face of Mt. Stewart, following a prominent crack system that widens enough at one point to inspire the pitch name The Sleeping Bag Simulator. The climbing is on clean, solid rock, and most ofthe ten pitches are consistent 5.10. Brandon Thau, Joe Reichert, and I linked up ten long pitches of steep, sustained free climbing with a short bolt ladder (perhaps freeable face climbing) on Patterson Bluff. Our route, Way ofthe Dragon (IV 5.11 A0), brings the number ofroutes in this area to well over a dozen, though it may be the first on what is called the “back wall.” As with the main bluff, this route is reached by rappelling to the base.

On the Amphitheater Wall in Kings Canyon National Park, Sigi Vogl and I put up Center Stage (IV 5.10), following a steep crack system that goes directly up the center ofthe main wall in the cirque. Virtually all ofthe ten pitches have some 5.10. There are no written reports ofany previous technical activity in the cirque, though there are at least halfa dozen enticing formations in this beautiful lake basin. This area is a long way from anywhere, but we chose to approach via Bishop Pass, Knapsack Pass, Cataract Creek, and Ampitheater Lake—20+ miles, half of it cross-country, making for a substantial day.

In Sequoia National Park, on the Arctic Lake Wall, Mike Davis and I climbed Arctic Blast (IV 5.10), a right-facing corner system that ascends directly to the east summit. We also climbed an eight-pitch route (5.10+) to the main summit that may be all or part ofGalen Rowell’s Arctic Dreams route. It’s hard to tell, as there are impressive crack systems about every 50 feet across the face. Also in this park Aaron Zanto and I climbed the obvious central crack system up the east face ofthe fortresslike formation that lies along the south ridge of Mt. Newcomb, above the Sky Blue Lakes cirque. The seven pitches of The Keep (IV 5.10) follow brilliant cracks of all widths and end in a clean, strenuous corner that is set back inside a huge cleft. A unique climb in an amazing setting.

DAVE NETTLE
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Ed Hartouni
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« Reply #10 on: December 04, 2009, 09:11:24 PM »

AAJ 1986, p156

Patterson Bluffs, South Face, Sunset Buttress. This 1000-cloven hoof-plus cliff is just west of Balch Camp Flake facing south above Balch Camp in Sierra National Forest. In the spring Paul Martzen and I completed a nine-pitch route near the west end of the cliff which follows the prow of a huge, thin, sweeping buttress. The first half of the route is mixed and the last half is all free with a large ledge at the top of the sixth pitch. The approach is via a dirt road extending south from the highway near Dinkey Creek and a short walk to the top of the cliff where one can either rappel down the buttress or descend the gully to the west. Hardware should include some copperheads and thin to medium pitons. This high-quality route, the first on the cliff, is on excellent rock with great views. (IV, 5.10, A2.)

DICK LEVERSEE
« Last Edit: December 04, 2009, 09:18:39 PM by Ed Hartouni » Logged
Ed Hartouni
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« Reply #11 on: December 04, 2009, 09:16:02 PM »

AAJ 1995, p156

Patterson Bluffs, “The Sun Also Rises.” In September, Scott Cosgrove, Jim Zellers and I completed a free ascent of the Sunset Buttress Route, originally rated IV, 5.10, A2 (AAJ, 1986, page 156) on Patterson Bluffs above Balch Camp. The route had not been repeated since its original ascent. This remote 10-pitch route involves 2 pitches of 5.12, 6 of 5.11 and 1 each of 5.10 and 5.8. We climbed three new variation pitches to avoid unfreeable thin aid sections. This beautiful classic route is composed of about half crack- and half face-climbing on a steep slab, often involving airy sections on fine crystal dikes. Most belays are on ledges or stances, but there are three hanging belays. It is well protected with 3/8” bolts and incorporates nine fixed rappel stations to reach the bottom of the route from the top. Car access is via dirt road, then a 10-minute hike to the top (start of rappels). An approach to the base would involve a major amount of bushwhacking.

RICHARD LEVERSEE
« Last Edit: December 04, 2009, 09:18:16 PM by Ed Hartouni » Logged
Ed Hartouni
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« Reply #12 on: December 04, 2009, 09:22:51 PM »

AAJ 1998, p190

Balch Camp Flake, Flicker of Time Arete and The Passionate Life. On February 23, David Cotter and I climbed the east (right-hand) arete of the huge Balch Camp Flake, naming it the Flicker of Time Arete (5.9 A0). We started on the bolt ladder of the original 1954 route, then free climbed up the arete to the top. A day later, Jay Anderson and Ann Yeagle climbed the left-hand of the two very impressive and obvious wide cracks on the south side of Balch Camp Flake. This offwidth and squeeze chimney, which they named The Passionate Life (5.11c), had been attempted before, but never completed.

RICHARD LEVERSEE
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Ed Hartouni
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« Reply #13 on: December 04, 2009, 09:26:54 PM »

AAJ 1996, p154

Sierra National Forest, Balch Camp Flake, JCA’s Wide World Of Sport. Normally I wouldn’t bother to report such a short route, but the uniqueness of this climb makes it significant. Balch Camp Flake is a 240-foot free- standing flake above the road to Black Rock Reservoir. It was first climbed in the 1950s via a bolt ladder on the southeast arete. It is split on its south-east side by a clean. striking, overhanging off-width splitter crack, easily visible from the road. The first pitch is 5.12b and passes 10 bolts to a bolted stance on the left. The second pitch (5.11) continues past six more bolts to the top. Despite the 16 protection bolts, a number of wide pieces (up to 10 inches) were also used. Jay Anderson led the route in March 1995 (no falls) with Brad Jarrett following. Approach via several rappels (60 meter) behind the flake from the abandoned dirt road/trail above. This is a classic must-do for wide crack enthusiasts (I, 5.12b).

RICHARD LEVERSEE, unaffiliated
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Jaybro
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« Reply #14 on: December 05, 2009, 05:43:11 AM »

Nice work, Ed.  I thought I remembered there were some climbs there. There are more than the ones already mentioned.  There is  also a huge amount of potential for new excrement..  Someone needs to recut the the trail to the flake.  Heavy poison Oak action. David, Richard, Anne and I cut a trail in and I was the only who didn't have major problems.  Cotter actually went to the ER.

With the trail in it's a maybe 20 minute stroll.  Without it you hike for an hour on an old road to the summit of the bluff, rap 450' to a sort of tyrolean to the flake then rap 250' to the base. Leversee had a 450' and a two hundred fidy cloven hoof static line, that had to be carried to the summit, along with a lead line, rack a clank of giant cams, bosch, and several batteries.  What a pig fornicate!
It would be good to rebuild the the trail.  Which must have grown over since '97 when we were there  An early party  (1954) who best remain nameless ( though it's pretty funny if you know who it is) allegedly solved the trail dilemma by setting a brush fire.

Also the area is said to have the highest concentration of Mtn Lions in California. Seemed like it to me. I've seen several there, or maybe just the same one many times.  So take Leversee (he's large) or maybe Ablegabel and hike next to them.  Cats hate big people and are known to eat little people.

In Fact, Ed, could you just send Abelgabel in to burl in a trail and report back?


Oh and the name 'The Passionate Life' comes from the title of a Nietzche book.  But with proper passion this is a great place to climb.
« Last Edit: December 05, 2009, 05:54:19 AM by Jaybro » Logged
HJ
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« Reply #15 on: December 06, 2009, 05:18:59 PM »

Sounds cool. Guess I need to work on my poison oak tolerance. Supposedly if you eat lots of mango's (related to poison oak, believe it or not, both in the sumac family) you can build up your resistance. I guess it can go the other way, if you are too sensitive to poison oak, you'll get a mouth rash from eating mangos. This is approaching off-topic for this post, and possibly this forum, but Eliott Robinson, (way talanted epic groveler* back in the day) now does these epic hundred mile bushwacks through the poison oak in the San Juacintos. A definitive case of it doesn't have to be fun to be fun.

*off width climber
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Jaybro
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« Reply #16 on: December 06, 2009, 06:52:14 PM »

obviously there has to be a mango theme for some new routes there... The mango Wrangler,  Mango Mantle, Man of  el  Mango, I wanna be a Mango man... I 'll cogitate.....
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Ed Hartouni
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« Reply #17 on: December 07, 2009, 01:15:16 AM »

Ablegabel's been known in those parts... but SoSierra isn't his thing right now...

he will tell me from time-to-time "just because you can doesn't mean you should" which pretty much applies for everything... burling in a trail especially.

Isn't that the sort of stuff young people do well?
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Jaybro
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« Reply #18 on: December 07, 2009, 05:50:20 AM »

Well we're not getting any younger....
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HJ
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« Reply #19 on: December 07, 2009, 07:05:39 PM »

My experience with cats is they usually pick of the person at the back of the line...so, if you do put in that trail, don't be a slacker. Let me know when it's in. Also, is poison oak season limited to the spring, or does it go on forever in your parts of the world?
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Ed Hartouni
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« Reply #20 on: December 07, 2009, 10:30:39 PM »

forever doesn't begin to describe it...

never quite gets cold enough to make even the bare sticks benign...
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #21 on: December 12, 2009, 12:45:05 PM »




Oh and the name 'The Passionate Life' comes from the title of a Nietzche book.  But with proper passion this is a great place to climb.

Is that book by a prof in Texas?  Solomon?  Did some books on ancient greek philosophy too dealing with the passions.

kewl, thx for the insight on the route name Jaybro
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Ed Hartouni
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Living in the past


« Reply #22 on: December 12, 2009, 02:31:10 PM »

Jaybro, you got directions on how to get there?
« Last Edit: December 12, 2009, 03:03:01 PM by Ed Hartouni » Logged
Jaybro
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« Reply #23 on: December 12, 2009, 10:36:47 PM »

http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&q=Balch+camp+ca&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hq=&hnear=Balch+Camp,+CA&gl=us&ei=1XokS_HeApDssQObjMHgDg&sa=X&oi=geocode_result&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CAgQ8gEwAA




(Thanks Em)


Driving directions to Balch Camp, CA I remember ot being more straight forward, but it's a start.
202 mi – about 3 hours 55 mins
   
Livermore, CA

1.   Head northwest on S Livermore Ave toward 1st St      
105 ft
2.   Turn right at 1st St      
2.1 mi
3.   Take the ramp onto I-580 E      
9.9 mi
4.   Continue onto I-205 E      
14.6 mi
5.   Merge onto I-5 N      
0.8 mi
6.   Take exit 461 to merge onto CA-120 E toward Manteca/Sonora      
6.4 mi
7.   Take the exit onto CA-99 S toward Modesto/Fresno      
107 mi
8.   Take exit 133B to merge onto CA-180 E toward Kings Canyon/Airport      
4.0 mi
9.   Take exit 60A to merge onto CA-168 E toward Huntington Lake/Clovis      
18.9 mi
10.   Turn right at Sample Rd      
3.0 mi
11.   Turn right at Pittman Hill Rd      
1.2 mi
12.   Take the 1st left onto Watts Valley Rd      
7.4 mi
13.   Continue onto Maxon Rd      
5.0 mi
14.   Turn left at E Trimmer Springs Rd      
7.8 mi
15.   Turn right at Trimmer Springs Rd      
10.6 mi
16.   Turn left      
285 ft
17.   Turn left toward Trimmer Springs Rd      
3.2 mi
18.   Turn left at Trimmer Springs Rd      
423 ft
19.   Slight left at Sycamore Springs Rd      
279 ft
   
Balch Camp, CA

after you get to the Down of Balch camp  take the road to (Patterson Bluf  (you can see it from town [ maybe 100 people all employed by PGE) The road out of town (dubbed the disneyland ride) is steep and goes under Water pipes that are big enough to drive your van through. Bigger thatn the ones by ORG. at points it goes over wooden tressels (one lane that seem to be glued to the side of the cliff.  Worth the trip just to drive that road alone.
Leverss discovered it when he was in a small airplane taking pictures of backcountry domes.


« Last Edit: December 13, 2009, 09:53:49 AM by Jaybro » Logged
Jaybro
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« Reply #24 on: December 13, 2009, 09:49:00 AM »

One more thing about poison Oak Em and Brututs Employed Tyvek Repoman suits in this sort of situation.  She told me about some source of them.

Anybody up for a Feb. Balch Camp expedition?
« Last Edit: December 13, 2009, 11:50:54 AM by Jaybro » Logged
em knot
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« Reply #25 on: December 13, 2009, 05:22:59 PM »

I have a few o them Tyvek suits in the gear room. Can't divulge the source (no longer available) but they're here for the askin'

Brutus's routine for P.O. areas: dress in old clothes/shoes (Goodwill is good source), cover with Tyvek suit, hike through P.O. When past danger zone, at nearest stream, take off all clothes (woo-hoo, this was the part I liked), stash clothes in trash bag, wash whole body with Technu soap, put on all clean clothes, Climb. For the descent, repeat the above, finishing with Technu bath & clean clothes from car. Discard or burn Tyvek suit and old clothes (if you can't afford to discard clothes/shoes, wash well w/detergent but wear gloves to protect hands).

If with all precautions you get the nasty rash, try Zanfel soap. Available OTC, absurdly expensive (about $40 for small tube), but works like a charm to get the oil off your skin (and has little scrub-beads so it also helps the itch).

Yes for February. I'd love to visit that area, have been curious about it for years.

Damn the mangoes, full speed ahead. I'll volunteer to be last in line. I'm small and I like cats.

grrrrowwlllll
em
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scuffy b
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« Reply #26 on: December 15, 2009, 09:43:59 AM »

Tyvek suits are highly available at farm supply stores. Maybe not so many of those
in Mill Valley eh? But Watsonville, Modesto, Escalon, Oakdale, places like that,
very easy to find.
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Jaybro
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« Reply #27 on: December 15, 2009, 10:09:24 AM »

Good for photography, too.
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HJ
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« Reply #28 on: December 15, 2009, 03:00:06 PM »

Tyvek suits good for photography? Or the destination?
It's possible I could be conned into this, though it's a long drive from my abode. Probably depend on weather around my area at the time. Sometimes it's just not practicle to drive. (And at those times the skiing is often wonderful.) New places are always a big draw.
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Jaybro
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« Reply #29 on: December 15, 2009, 04:17:19 PM »

I'll keep you appraised...
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #30 on: February 03, 2010, 12:14:03 AM »

burp
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excap
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« Reply #31 on: February 03, 2010, 10:36:51 AM »

That whole P.O. thing sounds kinda horrendous.
Or maybe I'm a wimp. Some such, I imagine. Tongue
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Jaybro
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« Reply #32 on: February 03, 2010, 11:06:25 AM »

I only mention it cause other people have problems with it. It doesn't (knock on wood) affect me.

The only time i have Ever been affected ( and i grew up in Illinois  funning through the poison ivy and poison Sumac fields as often as I could) was a hot day on Gooseberry Jam on Deto, it was a hot day, and we climbed with out shirts. I got some scrapes on my arms and then we climbed right  through the PI, I had some vaque  red spots along the scratches.  My partner went to the ER.  Actually there was another time, passion related, but I can't talk about that....
« Last Edit: February 03, 2010, 11:08:14 AM by Jaybro » Logged
base104
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« Reply #33 on: February 07, 2010, 12:14:27 AM »

Hey,

My old lady runs a bunch of Superfund sites and they use those tyvek suits and just toss them. So they gotta be cheap. I will try to find out how to find them and you can sell them on the widefetish store.

You will look like those dudes who pop out of the chopper in Andromeda Strain, though. Might freak out the locals. The husband beater also has these wicked masks for all kinds of nasty chemicals. You could don them in Curry Village with some shoe boxes made up to look like geiger counters and scare the excrement out of people.
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excap
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« Reply #34 on: February 07, 2010, 06:32:15 AM »

Well, once anyway! Cheesy
Then The Tool would surely shut you down. No sense of humor, those guys. Tongue
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RussWalling
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« Reply #35 on: February 07, 2010, 09:28:19 AM »

Home Depot has the suits in the paint dept.  I think they are like 15 clams.  Could have used one the last few days.  I was looking like a mime after texturing and spraying paint on some ceilings.
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Jaybro
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« Reply #36 on: February 07, 2010, 09:24:19 PM »

You mean,you aren't a Mime, Russ?

Direction update on the other Balch camp thread, I was there today and it's all still there, phtos and emailings to follow.
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