Boogaloo new

[Jaybro]

Note:  This thread has been SANITIZED by Russ.  If anyone has any questions or objections, please send them to me in an email



So what's the deal
with these two?



Word is they are the opening act, (and no doubt the finale)
 and already on site.

But, I'm not convinced that this,



it that guy's 'side in'!?

[goatboy]

Big Pink is no more…we boarded it up and filled it with quickcrete…I despise that place…what sick mind picked that place for a party, they should be locked away…I’ll see you all in Rifle where we can placate our egos and spray like a broken sprinkler.

[Jaybro]

So, um, how did Worm drive go?

[goatboy]

Oh Worm Drive is fine, stellar line and setting and not a complete sandbag, we should make a day of it this time around.

Even Robbie Robertson said Big Pink had to go, sorry

[Jaybro]

yup, saw the last waltz before i climbed that one, though that probably did not  affect my own name choice.

[goatboy]

ok ok I’ll go dig it out and peal the boards down.

[goatboy]

Hey Jay would you know where Legend of Sleepy Hollow may be out by the Citadel, we spent the better part of Sunday looking for it to no avail….inquiring minds want to know.

Also could someone send me Nurse Ratchets email, Pat left her old Tuolumne guidebook to give back to her when she comes out, I may be up on Long’s this weekend and don’t want to miss her…haven’t heard a estimated time she will be around.

[pkingsbury]

For some reason, I thought the lieback was the beta to use?!?!  (thanks jaybro!)

and btw don't let goatboy order food for ya, unless you want 'balls' on your pizza.....YIKES!!!!!!!!!!

[goatboy]

My nads were depleted, I had to resupply somehow.

[Jaybro]

Goat, I'll send you Em's email address in a minute as soon as I find your's, you might wanna watch the messages here and from the Taco.. i'll see her tomorrow for wide wednesday @ Scuffy's as well as the pre event crackathon at PGSF, tomorrow.
Shanti asked me about Sleepy hollow, and I couldn't place it, I don't know where my head is, these days...




I'm with you, patrick. I don't do don't do balls on my pizza either!

Layback, in Vedauwoo?  I think they call that the  Greenie variation...

[scuffy b]

You can lieback it like a Frenchie (or Prancer) or Jam It Like A Man

(apologies to Women who Jam, it was a flow thing)

[pkingsbury]

hahahaha!  knew that shot was gonna catch me some grief!  tried to get a layback shot on the 8oz's too, but couldn't get my foot off the ground long enough....doh! 

note how far back i was able to place my high piece from that bomber stance!

now underclinging/ liebacking lucile could be a challenge too.....hmmmmm

[Jaybro]

People do all kinds of weird things on that one...

[Wilber]

Sleepy Hollow is by the classic crack boulder problems (the tall lieback/hand crack flake and the distinctly right leaning perfect hands to tips crack), which are on a separate little "crag"/mini wall on the northern side of Plumb Line crag.  You generally walk past them if you walk to Big Pink from 700c.  The Legend of Sleepy Hollow is generally to the west of those a couple hundred feet, and slightly behind them if looking at them, and in a cave in a big cluster of stacked boulders.  It goes right to left, and looks like Spin To Win on stereroids.  One precautionary note is that it is about ten feet off the deck and has a perfect back breaker rock that pretty much runs the length of the problem, plus the landing under the lip is also a jumbled mess.  Pads and spotters are a must.   

[Jaybro]

Should I bring my Maxi pad?  the Galoot might need to do forceful contortions in a leotard, after all.

[goatboy]

Thanks Wilbur, I know where that classic crack is and we did approach a cave similar to what you describe but it did not have an offwidth at the lip. We approached from the south and never searched any outcroppings due west or north of Plumb Line.

Jay bring a portaledge and haulbag we may need to lay siege.

[Jaybro]

and, for the record, I am now in possession of the Brothers Kingsbury's Trango nut tool/dager

[goatboy]

Nut tools?
Balls on pizzas??
We seriously need to charm more women to this site.

[Jaybro]

Speaking of charming the women, any Cilley sightings?  He was threatening to be there, about now.

[goatboy]

Nada, I asked the campground host if she had seen Mr. Cilley Dick and she just made a weird face and walked away…could have been one of those m/f miscommunications I’m renowned for.

[Wilber]

If you see that Cilley Dick guy, tell him that flared crack project of his went down a few years ago: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/wyoming/vedauwoo/crow_creek_boulders/105892350

Also tell him props on his sick highball on the way out to Worm Drive, and ask him if he ever named that one.  It starts out as a body length hand crack roof, then vertical decent tight hands to a horizontal, then a thin crack from the horizontal to the top.  Freaking classic!

[pkingsbury]

Thanks for the beta on the sleepy hollow justin!  Too bad we missed you when we were down there....hopefully next time!

[Wilber]

No problem Pat, hope you guys were able to find it alright.  Hopefully your guys trip was full of good times and hard sends.   

[Jaybro]

The magic bus just cleared Winnemucca!

[dickcilley]

I fear that flared crack succumbed to the unfortunate and seemingly now standard practice of useing crash pads as portable cheater stones. I just got back from the Dejavoo.in Montana.Took out a Wolf crossing the interstate in the Panhandle.Did considerable damage to the frontend of my car.If anyone wants to swing by here and pick me up.I'm good to go to the Boogaloo.

[Wilber]

I will lap that thing padless for you anytime.

[Jaybro]

Ed and Mike and I are inSLC headed to a new Dingus McGee area
briefly arrive in Vedauwoo Tuesday. See you all there?

[goatboy]

Bummer to hear about your car Dick, at least it only screwed up your car and you are okay. A friend of mine was driving back from skiing in the Tetons on 191, hit a coyote and it crashed thru his windshield breaking his nose in the process. He put on his ski goggles stuffed his nose with tpaper and then drove all the way to Rock Springs to find a hospital and get a new windshield.

I’d swing by to pick you up if it was on my way. If you can make it to Jackson you could probably bum a ride from Scott Cole since he is planning to come on down next week. Let me know if you can make it there and I will send you his contact info.

[Wilber]

Also, Dick, that crack went down from the ground to the top.  Not that that is hardass by any means, just proud to say that I figured out how to articulate for that jam you have to deadpoint by looking at it from the ground and trying it, not by hanging down on a rope.  I was hoping that you would be excited that it finally went.  Using a pad to cheat the start?  I hope you were kidding there... 

Hope you guys have fun at your little boogaloo.

[dickcilley]

I already knew it went.Glad you did it without a pad.Most modern climbers would have just stacked the pads and eliminated the difficulty. I see it every day.Good for you.I was there 3 or 4years ago talking to Scarpelli and some of the guys at a coffee shop.They said that and the other cracks on the wall had been done.Pretty wild

[Wilber]

I did it originally with a pad but no spotter, but just for protection so I could go all out throwing for that jam.  I went out to that thing one day every spring and fall for a couple of years until it went.  I would go for that jam but couldn't stick it at all, but I would swear to myself that it was possible.  It always beat me down and I would go home with my tail between my legs, then one day with a little extra creativity it clicked and I did it that day.  Since then I can do it every time I am out there, pad or no pad, spot or no spot, though it does take effort.  No one has repeated it to my knowledge, and I know plenty of people have tried.  It is a very technical and cool problem, especially so considering it is a crack. 

Also, do you have a name for that beautiful problem in The Citadel  that is close to but not at the base of Worm Drive?  Bob said you were the first on that, and it is a very inspiring line.  Starts out as a short lowball roof, then a hand crack, then a finger crack, and at least twenty feet tall.  I would love to record a name on it because it is very deserving of one because it is one of the finest highballs in Vedauwoo.  To rejog your memory, it would be to the left (north of) the trail a couple hundred yards if you are headed out to Worm Drive/Citadel from the parking area by the creek, which I can't remember the road number of.  Probably about two thirds of the way to Worm Drive from the parking area.

[dickcilley]

Sadly, My memories from that time are pretty vague.Probably braindamage from time spent in the fleshpots of Boulder.I always remembered that crack though.I didn't try it very much. Maybe only one time.But I thought it was super cool.Scarpelli showed it to me.But by then I was tiring of being almost always alone up there.I climbed with Bob a bit.And another guy from Laramie.I wish I could remember his name because he was a real good guy.Skip Guerin came up a couple weekends.Other than that,nature time!

[pkingsbury]

will the boogaloo still be going in early september?!

have fun down there cali boys!

[Jaybro]

Does Goatboy have my (manly) tiny purple mythos?

[goatboy]

They're in the back seat of my truck Jay, I’ll have them to you by tomorrow afternoon.

Does Em still need a ride up to Vedauwoo from the DIA?

[goatboy]

New ideas for the WideFetish store.

The Scarpelli shirt…

front


back



Whatever that thing Mike wore on his left knee, worked well for him…some sort of hockey gear??




And Em suggested Tube socks with 5.10 rubber on the ankles; sorry I don’t have the pics of the inspiration.
I'm sure there are a few other items I'm forgetting.

[RussWalling]

Nice unit!  I think the image is bogged down in the copyright dept.......

[Melini]

Ed, I think Jaybro is fixing to steal your identity.  Caution!

[wideload]

[Ed Hartouni]

meep-meep

[pkingsbury]

Looks like a good time by all!!!


is the woo-voo boogaloo round three ready to begin?!!

think tomorrow is the day!!!

goatboy: where you at?!

[Jaybro]

be careful out there...

as, my strings end in knots the razor gets closer.

[Jaybro]

Highlights from the ot nine season;
Triple secret Beta for getting to the new area



Mike and Dirty Dingus McGee, getting ready for our 5.11  'warmup' in temps just above freezing. Dingus and I  climbed Mental block in '79 he led the thin pitch and gave me the rest.  in the inerveening thirty years he's gotten wiser and even stronger.  I hope I'm pioneering 5.12's @ 61, like him.



the climb?





Bear humper.




a rerun,



but, I like it!

[Jaybro]

When we last saw the boys they was in a heap a trouble.
Mike had to deal with .12 sport crux;




but before you know it, he's through past the, not a give away, handcrack and up to the A3 part, easier with the right gear, maybe;

[Jaybro]

Which will bring us back to Ed and the Pranc,  i mean Dancers, remember Ed?

[RussWalling]

That Bear Humper is something I would hope my tax dollars went to support.  Long live the arts!

(the Prancers too..... )

[goatboy]

That picture could be the best shot that I’ve ever seen of Ed.

Pat, I’m climbing in the Indian Peaks this weekend and will be back up to Vedauwoo either
the night of the 11th or first thing on the 12th with hopefully better technique and enough tequila.

Still planning on a couple days down in the south platte??

[Ed Hartouni]

hmmm... I wish I knew what I was doing, the picture looks like a lot more fun than I remember...

maybe I shouldn't complain.

[RussWalling]

^^^^^^
 

[Jaybro]

The scene with the dancers had it's moments, imagine three old coots, the youngest of the group being 50, approaching a group of Coeds  some of whom may have seen their 20th year. Coots are after the classic 5.10 Offwidth Mainstreet.
"Excuse me sir, I don't know if you're supposed to be here."
"well if you don't know, we're climbing the route behind you," said Mike.

They scuttled away on their danskin™ enclosed behinds.  On retrospect, I have to wonder if they knew there was climbing there or even what a climb is, at that moment.

We get "the rope up there" with minimum fuss, then sureality sets in.  It's my job to belay Ed, who is on the semi-severely damaged list, on TR, a job I can handle, but meanwhile to my left is a point of dancers practicing moves, and polishing vertical choreography.  like any diligent  belayer, I am multi tasking; camera out alternating shots of Ed and nascent art.



Now, the astute observer, will note that in these last few shots one set of Dancers has been replaced by by Margeret and Neil, the directors/choreograhphers.  They climbed into the fray to demonstrate moves to the performers, it really was fascinating.  You can see two girls up and left taking this in, but there were also a bunch below taking notes.


flyer

"Am I on belay?'
"Throw in a double buddha."