Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
|
 |
« Reply #50 on: September 04, 2009, 02:19:03 PM » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
goatboy
|
|
« Reply #51 on: September 04, 2009, 03:51:03 PM » |
|
I can see why they are talking...Ed may be shrinking the closer he gets to the Sun... it looks like he has to stand on a log just to reach the campground table after a few days at altitude...  Reports of petite aliens are real and somebody should get Ed to a doctor before it’s too late…  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
|
|
« Reply #52 on: September 04, 2009, 04:50:08 PM » |
|
Knott to worry, 's cool, Ed, is, a doctor...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
goatboy
|
|
« Reply #53 on: September 04, 2009, 05:52:31 PM » |
|
Does he have a degree in foreshortening, otherwise It may be too late, oh the humanity...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
|
|
« Reply #54 on: September 04, 2009, 06:27:28 PM » |
|
I can't swear to it, but he doesn't seem to be getting any taller...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ed Hartouni
|
|
« Reply #55 on: September 04, 2009, 08:27:26 PM » |
|
space-time dilation...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ed Hartouni
|
|
« Reply #56 on: September 04, 2009, 08:32:07 PM » |
|
man, Mainstreet looks so short from below... I thought I was up there for at least 1000 years just getting from the start to the rest, it was another 1000 years before I caught my breadth... in the meantime Jaybro was making sure that I wasn't going to be distracted by the dancers...
I'm not even sure what Mike was doing...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
|
|
« Reply #57 on: September 04, 2009, 10:29:58 PM » |
|
Not to worry, Mike was thinking pure thoughts, fully in control of his own destiny...  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ed Hartouni
|
|
« Reply #58 on: September 05, 2009, 09:31:49 AM » |
|
the thought bubble?
"boy, I sure hope she wasn't putting me on about that sun block thing...
...maybe I could pull my ID and inspect the coverage... and get a look at any tan lines, ya, that's the ticket! tan lines..."
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
goatboy
|
|
« Reply #59 on: September 12, 2009, 11:17:40 AM » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Wilber
|
|
« Reply #61 on: September 14, 2009, 11:10:41 PM » |
|
Also, you all might want to check that FA with Odub. I know he did a bit of wide crack development out at Poland Hill in the late nineties. I don't know if he tagged that one or not. If it's an FA, give me the directions and I will add it to MP for you all.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: September 23, 2009, 05:21:13 PM by RussWalling »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|
odub
5.6 Fist
Posts: 21
|
|
« Reply #63 on: September 15, 2009, 09:02:27 PM » |
|
Yeah, I remember that one for sure. Don't have a clue if we named it though... as we assumed it had probably been climbed WAY before us. Did it immediately after Spider Tooth... and thought it to be quite a bit easier... maybe solid 5.11. In light of this thread, I think I'd call it "Green With Envy".
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RussWalling
|
|
« Reply #64 on: September 15, 2009, 09:12:46 PM » |
|
Sailor Jerry ROCKS!!!!!!
Hey Odub... good work on that Bachar song! A+
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
|
|
« Reply #65 on: September 15, 2009, 09:13:10 PM » |
|
An Ohioan, 2 Montanans, and a Boulderite walk into a bar...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Wilber
|
|
« Reply #66 on: September 16, 2009, 11:17:48 AM » |
|
Green With Envy it is then. I concur with the 5.11/V2 rating. I thought it was similar in style and a touch easier than Spin to Win, which I would argue is one of the easier V3's. I onsighted both directions on it and I would say both exits deserve the V2, though right to left is on the bottom end of that diffculty. Nice find Odub.
Also guys, When I was out there I did a long standing project (15 in the latest guide I believe) I called it The Bear Voo, probably anywhere between 5.12/V5 and 13-/V7. Tell me what you think.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: September 23, 2009, 05:24:18 PM by RussWalling »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
|
|
« Reply #67 on: September 16, 2009, 02:59:22 PM » |
|
Thanks for sharing.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
goatboy
|
|
« Reply #68 on: September 16, 2009, 03:21:06 PM » |
|
oh yeah...ALIENS!!!111  What’s the difference between a Boulderite and a Fulgurite? |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: September 23, 2009, 05:25:25 PM by RussWalling »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
|
|
« Reply #69 on: September 16, 2009, 03:28:25 PM » |
|
lightning always strikes the same place twice?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
|
|
« Reply #70 on: September 17, 2009, 11:33:50 AM » |
|
Anyone do anything fun and motivational in Vedauwoo lately?
Let's celebrate it!
Do I have to drag out kodachromes™ of old guys?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
pkingsbury
Guest
|
|
« Reply #71 on: September 17, 2009, 11:50:09 AM » |
|
i wanna see the kodachromes™ of the 'daft' old men! hahahahah!!!
cheers,
Patrick
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
goatboy
|
|
« Reply #72 on: September 17, 2009, 11:52:38 AM » |
|
 We’ll be back out there on Friday for another fun filled weekend. |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: September 23, 2009, 05:28:55 PM by RussWalling »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Shanti
Guest
|
|
« Reply #73 on: September 17, 2009, 12:31:58 PM » |
|
Mad for the "daft old men" of Widefetish! They're HAWT!  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
|
|
« Reply #74 on: September 17, 2009, 12:36:49 PM » |
|
Does that thing glow in the dark?
Some of them photos'd skeer ya! jest sayin'
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
|
|
« Reply #75 on: September 17, 2009, 12:45:34 PM » |
|
It might, could,  Get ugly! -action shot on Excalibur! |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Shanti
Guest
|
|
« Reply #76 on: September 17, 2009, 01:35:22 PM » |
|
Smooth move Daffy!  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Will
|
|
« Reply #77 on: September 18, 2009, 11:39:38 AM » |
|
This thread needs something. And ya'll need to relax with a nice cold beer. WWJLD? He looks pretty relaxed.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
|
|
« Reply #78 on: September 18, 2009, 01:32:18 PM » |
|
I and i be chillin' wit da Jello, yo!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
pkingsbury
Guest
|
|
« Reply #79 on: September 21, 2009, 08:43:15 AM » |
|
5.11 seems about right, but definitely harder than the desiderata
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: September 21, 2009, 10:10:59 AM by pkingsbury »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
pkingsbury
Guest
|
|
« Reply #80 on: September 21, 2009, 12:50:54 PM » |
|
I thought for some reason, I had heard that Bob did in fact rate 'Squat' (5.11) originally, though I might be wrong; and when looked at in comparison to 'Big Pink" and 'Worm Drive' I'd believe it. Stout little beasts.....
edit: no need to bump. easy on the excrement talking
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: September 21, 2009, 01:23:26 PM by pkingsbury »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Wilber
|
|
« Reply #81 on: September 21, 2009, 01:30:34 PM » |
|
Ok, I can certainly agree to no more excrement talking. Back to the kodachromes!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
RussWalling
|
|
« Reply #82 on: September 21, 2009, 01:42:35 PM » |
|
{{message delivered and received}}
Thanks!
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: September 21, 2009, 02:49:58 PM by RussWalling »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
|
|
« Reply #83 on: September 21, 2009, 02:15:46 PM » |
|
Squat, was, originally rated 5.11. 5.11d
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: September 22, 2009, 11:09:00 AM by Jaybro »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
pkingsbury
Guest
|
|
« Reply #84 on: September 21, 2009, 02:30:09 PM » |
|
I thought i remembered you saying that at Sonora Pass on your birthday!!!
Though for some reason i thought i might have imagined it.......beers, and high altitude and all.......
definitely makes sense .11b right?!?! haha
we've just been calling almost everything hard "5.11 Bob"
cheers,
Patrick
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: September 21, 2009, 02:35:59 PM by pkingsbury »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Wilber
|
|
« Reply #85 on: September 21, 2009, 04:00:40 PM » |
|
On second thought, don't worry about it Russ. As far as Desiderata vs. GWE, I totally agree Patrick. The 5.12/V5 on Desiderata only applies if you use the original sequence, and that is meant to be more honest. If you use the obvious beta that I missed you will find that it fits quite nicely into the broad category of "5.11" at Vedauwoo. This category includes climbs that are honest such as Spectreman, as well as horrible sandbags like Big Pink, and everything in between. With that precedent, I suppose 90% of the climbs rated harder than 5.11 are not, and many of the climbs rated easier than 5.11 are actually 5.11. Personally I think it is retarded. It only promotes everyone to try to stick their chest out and say that they are the biggest hardass who is the most humble and takes their climbing with only the lightest of hearts, all of which is generally complete bullshit. Bob once told me after I had put up a bunch of new sandbags that I finally "got it". "fornicate em all" he said. As for Squat, I will take your word for it Jay. It certainly fits into the broad category of 5.11, especially with the new beta, whch makes it easier. It is certainly no Big Pink. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
|
|
« Reply #86 on: September 21, 2009, 04:31:06 PM » |
|
Did you find short but wide, to be harder than Squat, Justin? So be it! Never heard anyone else say that, it's all different for each of us.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: September 23, 2009, 05:33:17 PM by RussWalling »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Wilber
|
|
« Reply #87 on: September 21, 2009, 07:07:54 PM » |
|
Short but wide is casual. Just a little "how do you do?" and BLAM! SENT!
On another note, why do you hold the view you do concerning comparing climbs? I agree that it is different for us all, and that is why I like the 10-, 10, 10+, 11-, etc. system better. To me 10- means most people will find the climb 10a or 10b, 10 would be 10b or 10c, and 10+ would be 10c or 10d. Not perfect, but what is. Also, nothing wrong with giving things two grades, such as a climb that is for some a squeeze chimney but others some aweful size. Most climbs are not like that, but there are exceptions that should be recognized. Whats more, people need to get over the idea of perfect accuracy within a grading system. If the grades are pretty close and the people who gave them did their best to be honest, then leave it be and don't cry about how inaccurate it all is nor stick out your chest in righteousness.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: September 23, 2009, 05:34:19 PM by RussWalling »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
goatboy
|
|
« Reply #88 on: September 21, 2009, 07:43:08 PM » |
|
8oz to Freedom is a perfect fist crack for me, so that's like 10+ in greenieland.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
|
|
« Reply #89 on: September 21, 2009, 07:49:42 PM » |
|
Fucking Greenies with their big fists, there's no dealing with them!
you know there is, the inverse proportional rule...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
goatboy
|
|
« Reply #90 on: September 21, 2009, 08:03:04 PM » |
|
Inverse proportional rule doesn’t apply, I was retrofitted by the good Doc Benway before they shipped me back west.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
|
|
« Reply #91 on: September 21, 2009, 08:10:08 PM » |
|
"Dr Benway to the Clacker ward,"
"quiet on the stairway...'
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
goatboy
|
|
« Reply #92 on: September 21, 2009, 08:46:16 PM » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
|
|
« Reply #93 on: September 22, 2009, 03:28:08 AM » |
|
gotta poke around for those 'chromes...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
scuffy b
|
|
« Reply #94 on: September 22, 2009, 08:11:43 AM » |
|
My two cents on your ideas of ratings: dividing 5.10 into 3 categories instead
of 4? Fine, but all the same things will happen. All we can really say is
which climbs we find to be harder than which other climbs. It won't
be the same for everyone.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: September 23, 2009, 05:38:32 PM by RussWalling »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Wilber
|
|
« Reply #95 on: September 22, 2009, 12:49:50 PM » |
|
Scuffy, I agree that most of the same things would happen, it would just help to minimize the bitching and the whining and the self righteosness that happen when people find that the ratings at crag X are not 100% consistent. Personally, I like sites like Mountain Project, where everyone gets to put in their two cents and then a concensus is formed by the opinions given. That still requires that people put their egos and agendas on the side, so maybe it is in fact asking too much. Thats why Bob says "fornicate em all". He believes asking folks to have integrity when they rate something or repeat something is asking too much, and he is speaking from experience.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: September 23, 2009, 05:39:40 PM by RussWalling »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Wilber
|
|
« Reply #96 on: September 22, 2009, 12:51:33 PM » |
|
Find them Jay, FIND THEM! I would love to see them.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
|
|
« Reply #97 on: September 22, 2009, 04:22:07 PM » |
|
This is going to have to become a scanning project. For now, here's Muscle and Fitness before it was a climb.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
pkingsbury
Guest
|
|
« Reply #98 on: September 22, 2009, 04:43:30 PM » |
|
That thing looks cool!!!!
Recently checked out the 'New Maps of Hell' , sounds dangerous, but didn't look that bad........
what's the deal with that thing anyway Jay???
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1426
|
|
« Reply #99 on: September 22, 2009, 04:51:56 PM » |
|
IMHO, is almost exactly like the climb, 'Realm of the Lizard King,' in the valley; weird deep flake Jam downward flaring, etc.
Have you done Pretzel Logic, in Blair, Patrick? That's another short weird one.
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: October 15, 2009, 08:52:56 PM by Jaybro »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
