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Author Topic: The road to Boa...  (Read 9859 times)
Jaybro
Wide Zombie
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Posts: 1516



« Reply #50 on: May 13, 2010, 09:47:58 PM »

But all of my recent dates have been in flip flops.  Is there something I should have known a long time ago?


How toxic is that fungus stuff?  Back in the 2oth century, when i was married to Doctor, she nixed the idea of such drugs because they would be too dangerous.  Or are you just extra tough, wearing flipflops in Montana?

Does this mean no pedicure por moi?  I had settled on a nail color and everything...
« Last Edit: May 13, 2010, 09:54:42 PM by Jaybro » Logged
RussWalling
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« Reply #51 on: May 13, 2010, 11:39:40 PM »

isnt that the stuff that gives you pretty feet and nails but then you need a bolt on liver?

vanity kills.....
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Jaybro
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« Reply #52 on: May 14, 2010, 12:01:08 AM »

That's pretty much how it was explained to me.  Michele put up with my toes for over twenty years, and didn't think, in her medical opinion that it was a good choice, to hit that anti-fungal....
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goatboy
Did "Cream" naked
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Posts: 356


« Reply #53 on: May 14, 2010, 05:50:32 AM »

This ain't no job for prancers!

Cool, I’m from Florida that means I got a chance.
I think FL is still a few notches up from Prancerville.

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Jaybro
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« Reply #54 on: May 14, 2010, 07:22:25 AM »

Do you feel safe, saying that around all those Greenies?
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goatboy
Did "Cream" naked
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Posts: 356


« Reply #55 on: May 14, 2010, 07:37:16 AM »

They’re too self absorbed to notice.
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Jaybro
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« Reply #56 on: May 14, 2010, 07:56:57 AM »

Where have I heard that before....
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HJ
5.9 Squeeze
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« Reply #57 on: May 14, 2010, 08:00:33 AM »

You all worried about in-jesting substances that might hurt your liver? Now that's a laugh.
No worse than Vitamin I according to my doc.
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Jaybro
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« Reply #58 on: May 14, 2010, 08:11:45 AM »

like I say my info is out of date, maybe current meds are less toxic (sounds cheap too)  but then again a man must take chaege of his own liver and I'm on a skyrockedting ibu/Naprosyn regimine, as it is...
« Last Edit: May 14, 2010, 08:15:19 AM by Jaybro » Logged
RussWalling
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« Reply #59 on: May 14, 2010, 08:59:01 AM »

You all worried about in-jesting substances that might hurt your liver? Now that's a laugh.

 Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy
got us on that one!
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Ed Hartouni
JayBro Status
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Posts: 497


Living in the past


« Reply #60 on: May 14, 2010, 09:29:34 PM »

enough with the toenail shizzz... back to the OP topic



I suggest Jaybroa (I have Jayboa in the pix, but adding the "r" makes it better) but maybe it should be OffWidth Pedicure
« Last Edit: May 14, 2010, 09:45:27 PM by Ed Hartouni » Logged
goatboy
Did "Cream" naked
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Posts: 356


« Reply #61 on: May 17, 2010, 06:03:54 AM »

Jay's Knobby Boa?
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Jaybro
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« Reply #62 on: May 17, 2010, 07:17:52 AM »


Previously unreported conept peice from the artist formerlly known as walling;



With Walt sending Vibes from the other side, we can't go wrong!

 Hands off my knobby Boa, Goat!
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Jaybro
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« Reply #63 on: July 05, 2010, 09:25:22 AM »

Okay so what about this slab?

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goatboy
Did "Cream" naked
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Posts: 356


« Reply #64 on: July 06, 2010, 05:17:28 PM »

Will that horizontal flake that tapers off take gear? Can you access it from the ground (bigger picture)?
What is the distance between where the flake tapers off and the horizontal seam that leads right to the roof?  
« Last Edit: July 06, 2010, 05:19:19 PM by goatboy » Logged
Ed Hartouni
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Living in the past


« Reply #65 on: July 06, 2010, 11:00:51 PM »

Jaybro took a bit closer look and thinks the flake has no "reasonable" pro placements (maybe #1 Lowe Balls?)...
I'm hoping to go up on Aqua Knobby sometime soon and case the joint out... but we may just have to suck it up and do the 5.9 death approach...

a member of the FA team hypothesized that if you have any chance at the roof, you can pull the approach... and they were all over that stone looking for ways up... my guess is that the route is the way...

Since I don't have a chance at the roof this year, I'm practicing on runout slab... we can take a team approach!
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Jaybro
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« Reply #66 on: July 07, 2010, 10:55:42 AM »

Good questions, wish I had answers.

"the way that can be climbed may not be the existing route" as Lao Tzu is thought to have said often during his long, trailbreaking, climbing career.
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goatboy
Did "Cream" naked
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Posts: 356


« Reply #67 on: July 07, 2010, 02:42:41 PM »

#1 Lowe Balls or a few equalized Lost Arrows?

Pitons still work for some free climbing.

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Jaybro
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« Reply #68 on: July 07, 2010, 04:22:08 PM »

I think it will be easier to tell when we actually get to the crack...
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Ed Hartouni
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Posts: 497


Living in the past


« Reply #69 on: July 18, 2010, 05:53:40 PM »

Just noticed some of the history Falkenstein put into the 4th edition of the Tuolumne guide... particularly, that Boa FA was by Robbins and Jim Dunlop in 1972 and was rated 5.9 A1, so the approach pitch is a Robbins runout affair... in 1983 Dale Bard and Bob Harrington did the FFA at 5.12d

Given that it was Robbins who did it first, and aided the hard parts, it is probably worth going up and taking a look at the approach pitch again, with "Robbins' eyes" (and maybe replace the bolts if it seems like that's needed).

We were on Aqua Knobby yesterday and underneath the roof looking at the various lines... Jaybroa doesn't look that practical...
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Jaybro
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« Reply #70 on: July 21, 2010, 07:34:00 PM »

most recent view;
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RussWalling
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« Reply #71 on: July 21, 2010, 11:14:23 PM »

I thought I saw a jug out there, but it was just fly excrement on my monitor....

5.9 face is keeping you wide guys off that thing?  You guys need to expand your game!
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Jaybro
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« Reply #72 on: July 21, 2010, 11:59:30 PM »

Patrick made it look sooo, scary
"there's a bolt about fifty feet above me...at least I think, it's a bolt"
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Widecurious
5.6 Fist
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Posts: 17


« Reply #73 on: July 23, 2010, 09:21:50 AM »

I second Jaybro. I was there the day Patrick was on the attempt.  He was really umm, hesitant about further upward movement. 
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goatboy
Did "Cream" naked
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Posts: 356


« Reply #74 on: July 23, 2010, 10:36:47 AM »

Patrick is too skinny for slabs! He could get knocked over by a light breeze.
I second the opinion that you need somebody with high mass to stick.
There has to be some sweet spot metric using circumference of waist
to angle of pitch that we are missing here…oh and skillz.

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Jaybro
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Posts: 1516



« Reply #75 on: July 23, 2010, 01:29:57 PM »

When are you coming out here?
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goatboy
Did "Cream" naked
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Posts: 356


« Reply #76 on: July 23, 2010, 05:34:40 PM »

I'm hoping October.
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Widecurious
5.6 Fist
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Posts: 17


« Reply #77 on: July 23, 2010, 09:50:46 PM »

Dammit, I've got the mass I just don't have the skills   Sad
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Ed Hartouni
JayBro Status
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Posts: 497


Living in the past


« Reply #78 on: June 14, 2015, 10:43:48 PM »

well, it was inevitable....
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=630732&msg=2641387#msg2641387

Chase Leary, belayed by Ashton McLean

congrats dudes... proud send
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RussWalling
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« Reply #79 on: June 15, 2015, 12:01:47 PM »

RADNESS
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Will
Bends it like Scuffy
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Posts: 241


« Reply #80 on: June 15, 2015, 05:01:46 PM »

Saw those pics earlier, pretty cool.

I've got JUST the thing to train for it too, Jaybro can attest. That boulder problem Mike C established last summer at the base of Forever War? (help me out here Jay, I may have the route name wrong). Full-on alternating double wings and steeeep.

Walleye said five bars on the Boa, that's about what this thing took. Seems very improbable, even when you are setting the wings it doesn't seem or feel like it will work...but it does.
« Last Edit: June 15, 2015, 05:07:20 PM by Will » Logged
VLG
5.10c OW
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Posts: 114


« Reply #81 on: January 30, 2016, 03:13:10 PM »

Walter J. Flint, providing the goods on the SuperTypo. The gauntlet has been thrown down.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=630732&tn=100
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Jaybro
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« Reply #82 on: February 09, 2016, 10:43:13 AM »

Who's in?
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