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Author Topic: Cool pics  (Read 12165 times)
RussWalling
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« on: February 11, 2009, 04:58:06 PM »

JoergB has added some info onto this set of pics.  Worth another look if you have not been in the Gallery lately.


http://widefetish.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=707
http://widefetish.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=1093
http://widefetish.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=1111
http://widefetish.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=1343
http://widefetish.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=1354

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Jaybro
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« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2009, 07:03:56 PM »

i'd climb there!
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joergB
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« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2009, 05:09:18 PM »

Well its winter, no climbing, boredom rules  Sad, so I went through the pictures of my data base and I just link some pics from Adr which may of interest for the community here. The pics are not my personal ones, but uploaded to my database at http://www.sandsteinklettern.de/:



Twin tower ascent, rated 5.7. Did that around 10 times, most times solo, but that makes hardly a difference to leading here. Very good hand stack exercise for the crack climbing course.

Karlik, Tortura 5.10d. You can imagine from the route name what to expect.
« Last Edit: February 12, 2009, 05:43:31 PM by joergB » Logged
joergB
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« Reply #3 on: February 12, 2009, 05:21:46 PM »

Some more:

Window tower, giant route. Main problem is not that its offwidth, nor that its overhanging, not even that the rock is totally brittle. Its the middle part which is wet and filled with green slime, and you need the will to go through it. Didn't do it myself.

Another short traning crack, rated 5.5


Some more Adr cracks, typical pro, found there everywhere

As protection is with rings and knot slings only, there are also knots for the wide.

If even cracks get boring and the weather is bad, we perform climbing as team sport. Problem is here that the first has to get onto the summit before the lowermost guys have completely sunk into the swamp. Actually we abused here some mexican tourist climbers, which we met in the pub the evening before  Grin

This is White Rose. Maybe the only route I know which is climbed by standard chimney technique but is rated 5.11c




One of the most difficult and famous towers in Adr, Ruebezahls Zahn, easiest ascent 5.11d. Really a bloody climb.

Optical Illusion, 5.10c. Sometimes things get too wide. And if you misestimate that, you end as below.
« Last Edit: February 12, 2009, 05:30:53 PM by joergB » Logged
scuffy b
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« Reply #4 on: February 12, 2009, 05:38:02 PM »

OMG, these are just great. thanks so much.
"Don't worry, there's a good bolt 60 feet off the deck."
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scuffy b
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« Reply #5 on: February 12, 2009, 05:53:25 PM »

I checked your website and never saw these pictures.
But a couple of your links (internal)....

I think I saw a "group shoulderstand" kind of thing that
included 18 people, without even counting the lowest layer!!

I really like the picture of shredded sling knots from the testing.

Berg Heil
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joergB
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« Reply #6 on: February 12, 2009, 06:07:11 PM »

Well some of the pics were a bit hidden, I hardly found them myself  Wink
My team climbing (Baustellen) page is here, if you want more of that.
http://www.joergbrutscher.homepage.t-online.de/baustwe.htm
I think the worst was 5 layers, over 40 guys included. Well, some people have special and weird preferences when climbing  Wink Wink
The knot test was 12 years ago, but now I know that they hold.
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RussWalling
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« Reply #7 on: February 12, 2009, 07:20:01 PM »

FANTASTIC!
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Will
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« Reply #8 on: February 12, 2009, 10:33:05 PM »

Yes! Great pics.
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #9 on: February 13, 2009, 12:28:13 AM »

I so would love to climb in the Elbsandstein, und Meteora.


Aside from Gritstone (which I have sampled a little) those are the only two places in all of EMEA that have consistently thought I would try and visit some day. Both have that 'other-worldly' feel to them in pictures.

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scuffy b
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« Reply #10 on: February 13, 2009, 11:39:28 AM »

Hey, about the guy with the bloody hands...
There's a stick hanging down between his legs...
Is that just a stick, maybe for poking and stroking the
baby heads into perfect position?
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Will
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« Reply #11 on: February 13, 2009, 12:00:35 PM »

Yeah, they use the sticks to poke the knots in there. Take a look at that last Mortimer film "The Sharp End", a bunch of hotshit americans go over there and climb stuff. It's pretty funny seeing them trying to place those things, while freaking out.
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scuffy b
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« Reply #12 on: February 13, 2009, 03:29:00 PM »

I like the image of Erstbegehung 2003.
Some of these are probably better for us who don't quite know what is
going on.
Having a guy up in a tree well removed from the rock...that's gotta be
a good thing, right?

On the subject of the wide cracks, though, it looks like some pretty
serious 5.5 and 5.7 climbing.
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joergB
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« Reply #13 on: February 14, 2009, 01:33:08 PM »

The stick, fixed with some rubber band at the back of the seat harness, is used to poke slings into position and get them out again. But they are not used for baby heads, the are most useful for the smaller slings. Most climbers have just slings ranging from 4 to 11mm. Only these with preference for the wide have also these baby heads knots and slings up to 1 inch.

On the picture Erstbegehung 2003, am Gruenling, the guy in the tree is just for taking pictures.
Well, this form of climbing base on a rule, that you can use under certain conditions the help of others for climbing. Normally this is rather seldom applied. But you can make a sport of its own of this and try to do and create routes where you need a maximum of people to do and where have to pile them as high as possible. Most of this happened in winter time, because when it cold and all the guys are near to getting crazy because they haven't touched rock for some time, then you can convince them to do this kind of freak climbing.

The ratings I mentioned below some pictures a literal translations from the local climbing guide. Of course its better not to trust them. The may apply only to people which haven't done anything in their life but soloing offwidths Wink . The second comment I have to make is that sandstone is somehow easier than granite. I remember a long time ago trip to the west of the US, especially a "Crack of Despair" in Yosemite, and was rated 5.10d or something, it looked to me as if it was 5.8 and I had to find out that it really was 5.10d Shocked Later, we travelled more eastwards and I felt much better in Utah, doing Castelton Tower, Moses Tower, North Six Shooter and some other climbs at Indian creek.
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Jaybro
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« Reply #14 on: February 14, 2009, 02:00:27 PM »

 Great  stuff!How about a BAWC field trip to Joergb land? 




Crack of Dispair is .10a, or so they say, I have never climbed it.  5.8 and 5.10a have been known to overlap, on occasion.
« Last Edit: February 14, 2009, 02:02:14 PM by Jaybro » Logged
joergB
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« Reply #15 on: February 16, 2009, 04:32:51 PM »

I so would love to climb in the Elbsandstein, und Meteora.
Maybe a few comments to Meteora:
A somehow useful description is here http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/150984/meteora.html
Meteora is mostly face and slab climbing, not too steep, with lots of peebles in, as this is conglomerate. There only few real chimney / crack climbs, but these are worth the trip.
The first to recommend is Archimedes on Pixari http://www.summitpost.org/route/453579/archimedes-pixari-.html Crux is an overhanging squeeze chimney, very airy, and a good preparation for harder stuff. Don't forget the prusiks! Falling out of this as a second without them will get you in serious trouble.
The second one to recommend is Kastrakiturm Talweg, 5 pitches chimney and ow, rated 5.10c, picture allready commented here http://widefetish.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=707
However, the ultimate to recommend if you are collecting ow is Gemeinschaftsweg on Alyssos. An acceptable picture I found here http://nv0.panoramio.com/navigate.php?id=9872908 The route is obvious from miles away.
When I did it first time and reached the top, I asked myself: Can that be exceeded? Can any climb be worse and more impressive than that? I had no answer.
The route itself is 11 pitches, 10 of them serious. The first 7 pitches go up to the big hole in the wall. Mostly chimney, sometimes ow, but allways somehow brittle rock (or how is it called in english if everything what you touch falls off?). If you have reached the hole you will note that the big hole is in reality a big rectum, full of excrement. 1000 years of birds shitting in that place. And if you have reached the hole, retreat is near to impossible. The next is the most impressive: two pitches (50m) of roof climbing, the first pitch is a combination of squeeze, fist and ow rated 5.10d, 3 bolts some medium to large camming devices helpful. The second roof pitch is an sparsely protected, A-shaped chimney, and you still may freak out if you look to the meadows 400' below you. The next pitch starts with another shitty offwidth (shitty offwidth is meant literally, because you fight your way through birds excrements) followed by 200' of chimney which will finish you physically.
After doing this route, it is recommended to have a shower, best without putting off the clothes, throw away the rope, and getting as fast as possible some liters of retsina in Cool



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RussWalling
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« Reply #16 on: February 16, 2009, 04:36:47 PM »

Holy excrement!  You sir are a Gold Mine!
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VLG
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« Reply #17 on: February 16, 2009, 05:35:10 PM »

Mussy,
  How about a shots of the 'Terminator', 'Morgue', and/or 'Mother of the Future' down at Hueco? (Hope I got those names right Undecided)
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joergB
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« Reply #18 on: March 15, 2009, 07:13:23 AM »

Here another picture of me doing my favorite width, this time from Elbsandstein, Kleiner Halben, North Face, photographed by Mike Jaeger when I did this the 2nd time.
The 1st time 1990, well, that was a story by itself:
I was hanging around Kleiner Halben, not sure what to do, my climbing partner had to leave earlier. Suddenly a group of other climbers showed up. I noted that they were somehow uneasy looking around. Aparently they were no locals. "Can I help you?" - "Yes. It's our first time in Elbsandstein. We have difficulties to localize the routes from the guidebook. Can you recommend us some routes, we normally do sports climbing grade 5.10 to 5.11 (translated) and prefer face climbing" - "Ok. What about just the North FACE route here? Pro is somehow unclear, but I lead and you may follow". As the exit of the route was not clearly visible and the start really offered face climbing with tiny holds, they agreed.
Now just imagine the fun I had belaying at the top and watched these fighting up the exit, allways close to the vomit limit  Grin Grin Grin


* S_khnord.jpg (51.1 KB, 441x664 - viewed 2109 times.)
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goatboy
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« Reply #19 on: March 15, 2009, 08:08:07 AM »

Very inspiring joerg!
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joergB
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« Reply #20 on: March 15, 2009, 11:18:59 AM »

Just found another picture of the training crack:
http://vwisb7.vkw.tu-dresden.de/~treiber/climbing/Adrspach_sep06/slides/dscn1541.jpg
Just get to the ring ''(visible at the upper end of the pic) or crater. Too small fists increase the probability for the latter.
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goatboy
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« Reply #21 on: March 15, 2009, 06:06:23 PM »

Hi joerg, what is this type of knot called?



I've never seen one before and was wondering how it would be tied.

the photo from upthread.

« Last Edit: March 15, 2009, 06:09:20 PM by goatboy » Logged
Tom Kingsbury
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« Reply #22 on: March 15, 2009, 07:54:31 PM »

GREAT PICS!!!!





what is this type of knot called?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monkey's_fist

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grug
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« Reply #23 on: March 16, 2009, 06:21:28 AM »

Sheesh!
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goatboy
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« Reply #24 on: March 16, 2009, 09:16:52 AM »

Thanks Tom.

Could knot find anything online or it got lost in translation.

http://74.125.95.132/translate_c?hl=en&u=http://www.joergbrutscher.homepage.t-online.de/&usg=ALkJrhisj1bt3o_QZuLAQw_kI1nz_P0Kfw

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joergB
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« Reply #25 on: March 16, 2009, 12:30:00 PM »

The knot is called "Kinderkopf" or "Affenfaust". The wikipedia link describes it mostly. Tieing it is awful, but a good time waste on a rainy day. I personally don't like them too much, I prefer the figure of 8 knot in a 20mm rope (1st picture attached).
A very interesting knot is the tricamknot (2nd pic). Its the valley giant among the knots. It works even in absolutely parallel offwidth.


* TOMASKA.JPG (39.64 KB, 441x707 - viewed 2039 times.)

* S_tkk.jpg (90.58 KB, 642x339 - viewed 2099 times.)
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RussWalling
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« Reply #26 on: March 17, 2009, 11:22:31 PM »

those knots are BOSS!!!!!!!!!!666
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Melini
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« Reply #27 on: March 18, 2009, 03:11:12 PM »

How much does a 20 cm monkey fist weigh compared to a big cam?  Maybe there's a business in selling pretied alpine pro-knots?
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Wilber
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« Reply #28 on: March 18, 2009, 03:55:10 PM »

joergB, how does that big ass knot work in parallel sided OW?  That is seriously cool.  BTW, we call brittle rock "choss" here in the states.
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Willoughby
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« Reply #29 on: March 18, 2009, 09:15:16 PM »

"Boss" is right!  So, with them tricam knots, I'm guessing you just flip 'em over so the long end is coming out of the top, and then cam 'em in place???  Yikes.  I'm not sure what's scarier to me: the prospect of falling on it or the prospect of tying it.  That thing looks rather, um, involved.  Rainy day or no, I don't know if I'd have the patience for figuring out how to tie one of those suckers.  That's some mighty fancy macramé!!
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VLG
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« Reply #30 on: March 19, 2009, 05:16:08 PM »

Forget the King of Beers, it's "the valley giant among the knots." That goes to 11.
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joergB
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« Reply #31 on: March 20, 2009, 11:49:54 AM »

The biggest of the tricamknots is about 0.5 kg. A friend of mine, Helge Kramberger did them, and don't ask me how to tie. They are difficult, at least much more difficult than monkey fist. Willoughby is right how to use them. They are real camming knots and the advantage is that the friction of webbing to sandstone is generally higher then metal to sandstone.
However, such are seldom used and basically it was an academic problem if a knot can be tied which works like a cam. An it worked. I took one, put it in a parallel 5" crack and tested with my body weight. It did it. I have to admit that I don't want to test this with a long fall. Roll Eyes
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joergB
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« Reply #32 on: March 21, 2009, 10:19:13 AM »

Just an actual picture from todays outing:

climbing saxonian style.
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scuffy b
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« Reply #33 on: March 23, 2009, 10:17:51 AM »

Does everybody get to the top?
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joergB
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« Reply #34 on: March 23, 2009, 11:24:20 AM »

Nobody got to the top  Sad See next photo here http://www.teufelsturm.de/fotos/anzeige.php?fotonr=1533&thumb=no
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RussWalling
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« Reply #35 on: March 23, 2009, 11:36:52 AM »

yowza!  nice ripper!
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #36 on: March 23, 2009, 10:53:46 PM »

who is holding that rope?!
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joergB
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« Reply #37 on: March 24, 2009, 11:22:17 AM »

The one holding the rope is on the ground, not visible. But what you can see is that it is an error to have the rope between the legs. This made him reverse and do the very last part of the fall head down. But nothing serious happened.
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bradkillough
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« Reply #38 on: March 27, 2009, 05:44:49 AM »

Crazy awesome!!! Good stuff.
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Stonyman61
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« Reply #39 on: March 27, 2009, 11:12:28 AM »

YIKES!!!!!!!!!!!

cool shots, but that looks SCARY MARY!!!!!


edit: is there gear in that horizontal...or going for the dirt?!?!?!?
« Last Edit: March 27, 2009, 11:29:17 AM by pkingsbury » Logged
joergB
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« Reply #40 on: March 27, 2009, 01:10:00 PM »

Gear Huh The only gear is the ring before the guy who is standing on the others heads.

I just found some more pics from the weird world of Adr climbing:
Slaninova, Visuta spara. Another route with 4 guys minimum to try.

At first you have to get to the crack, saxonian style.

This is followed by a typical Adr ow, where you don't have to care about pro.

Near the top you need again 4 guys. Two of them to stuff into the crack, their asses tied together and used as belay anchor. The tallest is used to step on.

SUMMIT! The goal is the summit regardless how!
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RussWalling
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« Reply #41 on: March 27, 2009, 02:19:54 PM »

hahahaha!  Fantastic!
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Willoughby
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« Reply #42 on: March 27, 2009, 02:33:31 PM »

Finally, a chance to showcase all those skills I picked up a Cheer Camp.  If only I had three friends...
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VLG
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« Reply #43 on: March 28, 2009, 12:22:21 PM »

Tiny hands in 'Grit Roof':

Not nearly as cool as cam-knots and shoulder stands, but still kind of cool.

Mussy, don't you have a shot of leading this on hexes?
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joergB
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« Reply #44 on: April 20, 2009, 12:28:49 PM »

I just found some more nice pics from Adr on a czech web site http://piskari.cz/top-fotky.php, horribly translated by http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fpiskari.cz%2Ftop-fotky.php&sl=cs&tl=en&history_state0=
Why do I post all this here? I believe, that anybody who posts regularily on a website which promotes offwidth climbing must be at least slightly perverted  Wink and might be also interested in similar weird and sick climbing  Grin
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RussWalling
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« Reply #45 on: April 20, 2009, 12:39:27 PM »

Good stuff!
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nutjob
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« Reply #46 on: April 23, 2009, 01:48:05 PM »

Holy shmanizL batman! I have been missing out by not checking the the WIIDE pages for too long!

New animals on the scene to share wonderful and life-altering perversions.
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joergB
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« Reply #47 on: May 06, 2009, 03:08:08 PM »

I just post another good Adersbach route, Kamen-Katapult. It was climbed in the framework of a crack climbing course. Starring this is Seppo; he is the one I recommend all the routes I am too scared to do.

Having managed the sandy roofs, now starting the crack from the ring.

Ooops! 5" and no pro for the next 50' !

SURVIVED! (Almost vomiting)

Great Adr route! Needs to be strongly recommended  Grin
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RussWalling
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« Reply #48 on: May 06, 2009, 03:25:23 PM »

Bitchen!
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Jaybro
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« Reply #49 on: May 06, 2009, 06:35:12 PM »



id quick,  may be breaking copyright laws and have to take this down!
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