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WideFetish Forum > General Category > W I D E Technique and Tips > Topic: Gritstone climbing article??
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Author Topic: Gritstone climbing article??  (Read 1274 times)
scuffy b
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Posts: 406
« on: May 13, 2008, 10:51:12 AM »
Some time ago, I think years would be a better unit than decades, one of the
American rags had  a pilgrimage-type piece.
I think it may have had a good group of photographs.
The one thing that stuck in my mind is that the author said that an
old Whillans climb from the 50s was an offwidth that went at 511D.
This could be a good piece of meat to gnaw on (maybe a little gristly,
so to speak.)
Is this a memory or another thing I plucked out of a dream?
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RussWalling
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« Reply #1 on: May 13, 2008, 12:52:25 PM »
Scuff... I'll get our resident expert over here to clear this up.

Ladies and Gentlemen, I would like to present to you a very dear friend of mine.  He's a UK Heartthrob, a master cocksman, a crappy OW climber, a fine father, my bouldering mentor, and at times a gin fueled maniac.  Here he is, the man of the hour, Mick Ryan!!!!!!!!!!!

(well, not quite yet... but I did send him the link to this thread)
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Mick Ryan
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« Reply #2 on: May 21, 2008, 12:36:24 PM »
I'm on the case.

Sorry for the delay.

I think it maybe Goliath at Burbage.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10682

Goliath    E4 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Samson   
Goliath Traverse >>

10m. An unrelenting struggle up the wide crack. At least it is protectable nowadays by the biggest cams and a tatty old thread in the depths of the crack. The bold (crazy?) can layback the outer edge of the crack but that isn't really the point. © ROCKFAX
FA. Don Whillans 1958
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RussWalling
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« Reply #3 on: May 21, 2008, 12:56:22 PM »
E4 5c..... that is like 4th class right?
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Mick Ryan
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« Reply #4 on: May 21, 2008, 12:59:52 PM »
E4 5c is like ....  5.11

Piss a piece for you Russ in your rubber suite.
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scuffy b
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Posts: 406
« Reply #5 on: May 21, 2008, 04:23:34 PM »
Sounds like pretty good standards for 50 years ago..
Thanks, Mick.
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Jaybro
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« Reply #6 on: May 21, 2008, 05:00:41 PM »
You might have a(n) (Stannage?) edge Scuff, I believe you are mas svelte than Mr Whillans... at least from the last time I saw you two together....
« Last Edit: May 21, 2008, 05:03:02 PM by Jaybro » Logged
mungeclimber
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Posts: 538
« Reply #7 on: June 09, 2008, 10:56:14 PM »
how'd I miss this?!?

how goes it Mick. 

Mick's like a hero.  He's a master-beta man! 

Topo-pimp deluxe.

cheers!

Munge
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