Cream, Yosemite Valley, Ca.

[RussWalling]

Anyone got any pics?  Anyone done it?

The link is up on the Route Beta Pages  (http://widefetish.com/routes/cream/cream.html)

[scuffy b]

I haven't done it. It's at the top of my Valley list, no kidding.
The only pictures I know are (1) in Ron Kauk's book, not captioned
and (2) in some Supertopo thread, photo or at least entry by
Werner, says very early ascent of Cream, climber John Bachar.
Those words will pull it up, I'm sure

[RussWalling]

yeah... that listing is part of the problem... image is gone and the album no longer exists!  I'll email Werner and see where that came from.

[Will]

Ahh excrement. I had a pic from when we went down there for Energy Crisis, but seem to have erased it. It was just a shot of the line with nobody on it, nothing special.

[RussWalling]

how did you get down to Energy Crisis?  rap or 3rd class gully?

[scuffy b]

Too bad about the Cream photo. I had just looked at it a few weeks ago.

[RussWalling]

it is up RIGHT NOW!!!!!!!!!  Werner is the man

[Will]

We went down the gully. Would be skier's right, puts you out pretty near the base of Cream. Then we had to crawl these ledge/slots to get over to the far side where Energy Crisis lies.Not too bad, but steep and loose and kind of a PITA on the way out. A late season hike up from below at low water would arguably be the better approach.

[Will]

Ok, I see what you've got working now. A route info/beta page. Cool.

Finding the top of the cliff itself is not trivial. I got beta from Mike Schaefer a few days before we went and it helped alot. The best piece of beta was to get down to the major powerline (there is a feeder line running more perpendicular to the valley...you want the main larger line running more parallel to the valley with all steel power poles.) You can follow the smaller power line which start very close to where you leave the car, and uses live trees as some of the "poles", down to the clearing where the main line runs. If you've ever noticed the big lines coming down the valley wall into the Generator Station, those are pretty close to the crag.

When you reach the power lines, you're looking for a pole with some scratching in the paint. A big "+" , a faint arrow, and "energy crisis" or "cream" (can't remember which) scratched in. When we were there, we went to the wrong side of the cliff top first. The cliff is bookended with "square cleft gullies" which are fairly obvious when staring down them, one on each side of the crag maybe 150 yards apart. The one on the skier's left had a highline with green webbing crossing it as of mid summer. DO NOT attempt to descend here. You will cliff out and/or die. Descend the one skier's right.

No trail to speak of and the descent gully looks a little improbable. The most beaten in path in the area goes to the skier's left side of the highline.

[RussWalling]

hahaha... I'm diggin this part:  it is "skiers right" and "climbers left".  Perfect!  I was lucky and found it first try and never saw the pole..... did I mention Billy was on acid?  Never mind....

[scuffy b]

It took me more than one try. I went there in August this year, without the book. Made it
as far as the first metal power pole. You want the next one.
I tried various other options because I'd seen a couple cairns.
In September I tried again. Went down (the easiest way) to the metal pole, walked east
to the 2nd pole which had a cairn. Tried the closest gully I could find, got cliffed out,
looked around more, finally found the right gully which was obviously travelled, to my eye.
That takes you right down to Cream.
If you start angling eastward as soon as it is reasonable, following your nose just may take
you directly to the key power tower. I mean, if I followed my nose I would get there.
Saves probably 2 minutes over the easiest way.

[RussWalling]

so......?  how did it go on Cream?

[scuffy b]

I was alone. Trying to find it, to see how scary, before subjecting any friends
to wandering aimlessly.
So, I've never tried it.
Top Valley Priority.

[RussWalling]

Your time will come......

[rwenzel]

Cool!  Great to have these directions!  Great idea with the site, Russ!

I don't think there is a valley trip that goes by where my partner doesn't talk about wanting to do Cream, as we drive down the canyon.  Now that I'm hooked on the wide, I think we're gonna have to go find it.  Seems like you guys jsut made it a bit easier! 

[Ed Hartouni]

the bolt fairies have been at work, there are two new 3/8"x2.25" SS bolts and beefy hangers at the top of Cream. One of the 1/4" was pulled and replaced, the other thing probably should have been unscrewed and taken but remains. My guess is the fairies will get it next time 'round.

[gary carpenter]

Scuffy B Leads Cream Fully Clothed!

[Ed Hartouni]

Creamed  - a TR about Cream, Yosemite Valley
May 3, 2008
Steve Moyles, Jay Anderson, Gary Carpenter and Ed Hartouni

Part 1, History


The Roper guide doesn't mention it, it is a 1971 climb...  Bridwell mentions the climb in his article in Mountain #31"Brave New World:"

Cream is a fine demonstration of off-width art. The route was improvised on sight, at the first attempt, by Mark Klemens. Mark is known for his masterful control in off-width cracks. The climb is strenuous and hard to protect. The feeling of security fleets from reach on this lead, and you know why when the rope hangs out eight feet at the bottom!

in the table of climbs, Cream is listed as 5.11a. He repeats the rating assignment in his opinion piece in Ascent, Volume 2 Number 1, July 1973 "The Innocent; The Ignorant; and The Insecure," though listed as "5.11".

The original Meyers' guide "Yosemite Climbs - Topographical Drawings of the Best Rockclimbing Routes in Yosemite Valley" (published by Mountain Letters, Modesto CA) Cream is listed in the "Offwidth (3 1/2" to 8") as 5.11. The approach is shown and sets the stage for subsequent adventures. Of note is the interesting notation on the topo "3rd [class] ledges or rappel" on the final descent gully listed as 200'. Shown are the two climbs Cream, 5.11, nuts to 3 1/2", plus 2 each 4"-6" and Jam Session, 5.10d, nuts to 5". I'm not sure if this last gear recommendation isn't really a statement of the required boldness.

In the "Yellow" Myers' there are more climbs, and elaborations of the rating, 5.11a, the approach comments are eliminated and the picture more detailed, but no more informative. the recommended equipment is modified but essentially the same, the word "nuts" is out and "pro" is in. The light blue Meyers & Reid guide repeats the same info.

Attribution for the climb throughout these guidebooks, is that Cream was done by "Mark Klemens et al. 8/71". The latest Reid's has an even more interesting fantasy approach which has some elements of reality, but would still incites adventure, apparent "rating inflation:"

"Hwy 41 hike down
square cleft
4th class dirt gully"

and the inviting description of the climb:

"A. Cream 5.11a** Pro: 2" to 6", including extra 4" to 6" pieces. A bizarre approach, yet a remarkable crack. A must for the offwidth aficianado. The crux is a slightly overhanging section perhaps 60 feet up, where the knee has to come out for a move. Physical, but fairly secure above."

[Jaybro]

Another shot of Scuff and Gary from Suffy's big adventure,


More later, after I get this tree sawed down, maybe I should have something beefier than an 18" electric, chainsaw for this sort of operation?

[Jaybro]

Back again, tree is history.

"Hwy 41 hike down
square cleft
4th class dirt gully"

The view of Reed's from the bottom of Cream;



Note that this is taken from a point roughly even with the top of five and Dime/120@ Reeds.  I didn't take a photo from where we were parked but, it's roughly parallel with the top of Reed's. Somewhat of an adventure descent; climber trail, pine needles, mossy hummocks, (sp) etc.

Scuff, check out the rack!



Gary!




Dr Ed!



Me?
-I got Creamed.  This coffing disease has not left.  I wheezed, hacked and rested; on the approach, on the climb, and the way back. On the route, I could remember what to do (from 20 odd yrs ago), but had no stamina.  Going into the clinic for regrooving, this week, maybe my meds need to be readjusted? I did get close to attempting it naked, blown out butt on my ow jones-jeans, my boxers held, but my butt is scarred!

[grug]

Awesome guys!  Way to go Scuffy.  Beautiful pictures.

[scuffy b]

Thanks, Grug.
I must say, before this goes any further, that I had to hang
at the lower section.  Moving from fist into OW remains a
puzzle for me.
The upper section, touted as the crux, seemed comparatively
routine. Taking the knee out for a bit, when you're already
established on heel/toe, isn't so bad.
When you lose your fist jam and still can't get a knee...
that spells trouble.
Way sore and tired after this effort.
I'd say the climb still appears to have my name all over it.
One of the best single-pitch climbs I've done in Yosemite.
Thanks, Gary, Ed, Jay.

[RussWalling]

Cool deal man!  Like the beta page says.... patella jam is the crux.

[grug]

fist into OW -- my mom suckled me on that excrement.

I'm so "alzo" I could be wrong, but I never did Cream, but I shoulda'. 

[scuffy b]

That thing's got your name all over it, Grug. Just a couple moves of the armbar/footjam
combination, get the knee in and you've got about 80ft of OW before the chimney finish.
Sometimes it doesn't look steep. Sometimes it does.

[Ed Hartouni]

my pleasure scuffy, it would have been years before I went down there to put hand on rock

grug, I think you would love that climb, it is a pure classic offwidth, just unrelenting, but pure technique and the physical ability to keep pumping it out gets you through...
...I hung like a sack of potatoes, but the technique seemed familiar the whole way. Maybe if I get strong then I'll send it when I grow up!

[Jaybro]

~"and the wind cried, Eeyonkee.."

[grug]

Sheesh.  I wished I lived closer to Yosemite just to hang out with you guys. 

[scuffy b]

It's a pretty high pressure environment, Grug.
All this backbiting, sniping, fear of failure,
exploding hat sizes...the list goes on and on.

It seems everyone took a full rack, just in case,
when we went to Cream. If all our gear were placed
there would have been no room to insert body
parts into the crack.

June? August?

sm

[Ed Hartouni]

Creamed - A TR about Cream, Yosemite Valley
May 3, 2008
Steve Moyles, Jay Anderson, Gary Carpenter and Ed Hartouni

Part 2, Approach

OK, here is some more beta...

The Google Earth view, park at the turnout on Hwy. 41 on the North side of the road (west bound) at the pull out just at the eastern beginning of the stone wall. From there, find a dry creek that descends, more towards the wall, with some big boulders at the top (though these seem movable, probably down the dry creek bed when it's wet). Walk this down until the ground flattens out. Then sort of bear left on flat ground around the left side of the munge covered grainy slab (avoid going down this). Keep walking until you intersect the power lines. You should be near a power pole. If you are where I think you should be, then looking east you would descend a munge covered grainy slab heading in to a dip, with another power pole up the hill from the dip. Don't go down the slab, but skirt it to your right as you are walking east on easier ground to the power line clearing. Head to the second power pole. When you get there you should see a cairn, some writing scratched in the paint of the pole and general sign of climbers. Take a few steps west and down hill. You should quickly come to a "square cut" gully, pretty steep, with moss, and brush, flowers, etc. growing in it (depending on the time of the year). Generally descend this on the right side of the gully. It is treacherous ground, loose, vegetated... don't lose control if you slip as you will likely bounce off of the ledge system at the bottom of the gully and over the next set of cliffs...
...bottoming out in the gully look left and see a beautiful faceted face, you should spy Cream relatively quickly.


Overview of approach


How I felt that morning, sort of blurry... Gary and scuffy in the forest at the bottom of the dry creek


Looking west at the "first power pole" from the "second power pole." Hwy 41 is left and up


Jaybro the OW God rests, Gary with one of the racks (we didn't need the Valley Giant) in the area of the "second power pole"


Jaybro the OW God descending, the shadow of the "second power pole" is in front of Gary


Jaybro the OW God uses his butt on the descent in the steep gully... scary!


View left at the bottom of the gully, scuffy cavorts topless


scuffy shoes up, Gary getting ready

[Jaybro]

Nice, Ed. I was hoping for some photo witness of the grade three, approach/exit!

[gary carpenter]

Next time we do this I would consider setting a fixed rope (60m) down the square cut gully approach.  Very loose and slick in spots.

Gary

[Ed Hartouni]

I was thinking of putting a rap station in from the top of Cream or west towards Jam Session to avoid destroying the vegetated gully. Perhaps we could find a tree, or maybe a block to plunk a couple of bolts into. Then just climb out on one of the routes at the end... or cleaning up an easy exit route on the cliff (like just left of Cream).

Definitely room for a little more exploring over there. I felt bad at the impact we were making in so short a time.

[RussWalling]

At least you guys were traveling light.... 

Good job and great info!

[Jaybro]

"light, not solid!"

[gary carpenter]

Hummm... If we can rap to the shiney new anchors we wouldn't have to bring any pro at all!

gary

[Jaybro]

I think the idea of rapping from the top, if one could find it ( d'oh, we forgot to dose!) , or fixing a descent line is a  good idea and would save delicate plant life, in the long run.

[gary carpenter]

It could also save delicate geezer life!

[Jaybro]

... and most of us geezers are not running on the first of our nine lives!

[Wilber]

Thank you Ed and everyone for putting that approach beta together.  I have a scar on my head to prove how bunk the description in the reeds guide is.  If I had hit a rock instead of a thick stick I would probably have a coffin to prove how shitty that description was.  One question though: After I had that experience I told a local fellow about it because I wanted to know the actual approach and he told me the way to do it was to find a telephone pole with a particular number and hike straight down from there to find the gulley.  It seems to me that the number on that telephone pole would be very useful for any approach description.

[Jaybro]

3?

[Ed Hartouni]

I didn't see an obvious pole number... but the pole you want is the one with Jaybro sitting and Gary standing next to.
The gully is just down from there... as in the next picture

[Jaybro]

There may telling info on the pole.

[scuffy b]

There are two cairns near the pole.

[Ed Hartouni]

here's a feeble attempt.... at animation!

[RussWalling]

Hey!  Pretty cool Ed!  Boss!

[Jaybro]

Solid, Jackson!

[scuffy b]

That's great, Ed.
I've been having trouble remembering what I did there.
After I was stumped and dogged around for a while,
trying different ways, I couldn't remember what worked.
Remembered what didn't work.
I was just convincing myself that ignoring the black blob to
the left was key. Get the right onto the really high
Gaston (sort of a knob) and shuffle the foot jams.
I think Mr. Bachar has that high Gaston in the photo of him
leading.

[Jaybro]

Scuffy led us up two OW FA's, yesterday, somewhere.

[scuffy b]

Yesterday was cool, Jay. Thanks to you and Ed.
My massage therapist isn't returning my calls, though.

Every time a see a picture of Cream...it looks like a great crack to climb.
I gotta get on that thing!!