One Armed Giant, Joshua Tree

[RussWalling]

here ya go, another dick wrenching mega classic:

http://widefetish.com/routes/o_a_g/one_armed_giant.html

[RussWalling]

Both Will and myself thought this one might be a bit soft for the grade.  The Bartlett Guide gives it a PG , which might account for the slight padding in the letter grades.  That being said, The opening fall could be catastrophic, my feet did cut out from me under at the crux.... good thing the armbar was good, and the fairly continuous chimneying after the crux was a bit of a gasser and sorta run out.  Compared to say Kamikaze, I would say they are about the same grade wise.  Kamikaze is probably a bit easier, depending on fist size, but the OAG is burly-er.  I'll go with 5.10c, and maybe drop the Kamikaze to 10.b?

[Nick S]

Got on this the other day, I thought it was pretty burly. I felt like it was much more technically hard than Kamikaze, or at least a lot more work. As for gear beta, you can get good gear during the crux ranging from a #3 to a .5 in BD sizes. The big cams come into play, #4, 5, and 6 as the climbing gets easier but they are nice to have, without them it would be pretty heinously run out for the final squeeze section. I used a .5, .75 and a 1 for the anchor. The start wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, the fall into the pit is intimidating, but you can place a good piece on the right side of the chimney at your feet, then make a few easy chimney moves and place a money #3. So in total, I thought it was full on 10d, but very safe, and super bitchin.