Chingando, Yosemite Valley, Ca.

[RussWalling]

right here: http://widefetish.com/routes/chingando/chingando.html

[RussWalling]

Stolen from the web: (greenspun.com : LUSENET : Mountaineering : One Thread)

Can anyone offer a suggestion on what kind of rack is necessary to tame this beast. Took a look at the climb the other day and it didn't appear that my measly rack of 2 #4s, 1 #4.5 and 1 #5 camalot would see me through. Thanks.
(tricklie@xxxxxxx.com), April 24, 2001

Answers

When I did Chingando we had 1 #3 camalot 2 #3.5 camalots 2 #4 camalots 1 #4.5 camalot 1 #5 friend 1 #6 friend 2 #4 BigBro It was a monster rack and not needed! you can get by just fine with..... 2 #3.5 camalots 2-3 #4 camalots (push one along above you and leave the others for pro 1 #4.5 camalot 1 #5 Camalot and one #4 bigbro would be nice for the Squeeze at the top but if you feel OK running it out 25-30 feet then its not needed. Have fun! you will get a full body pump on this one, very sustained!!
Happy Climbing Ben
-- Ben Baker (BigWallBen@xxxxxx.com), April 24, 2001.

I know you were asking about the rack but, in case you feel like a relaxing pump, you can TR this climb by tunnelling out from behind the iota the top of the climb. Belay from there or do the 5.5 chimney to the spacious iota ledge and belay from there with a 60 meter rope.
Not as exciting as the lead but you can do laps until the skin falls off
Peace
Karl
-- Karl Baba (karlbaba@xxxxxxxxxxx.com), April 25, 2001.

[scuffy b]

Spy, Ed and Gary can all probably correct me on this one,
but I don't think I used anything between #2 Friend and
#6 Friend. I used a pair of #6.
The hardest part is very short. The long part above is
very secure.
Just don't try to step up on the big black knobs.
The moves you just did to get into position to step on the
knob should be continued until you are even with the knobs,
then just step across and rest.
NO HIGH STEPS or you'll waste huge amounts of energy.

[spyork]

I cleaned it Scuffy. You used a #2, then a 4, 5, and a 6 or two. Maybe some were old half sizes. Then you ran it to the top.

As I recall you placed a big unit when you got to those big rests. Made sense to me.

[Ed Hartouni]

I integrated over many attempts, early on, we used a lot more gear getting through the pod... we didn't have a #6 Friend, but I thought the 2 #4.5 were enough to get through the crux section... and that you could use a #4 just above the pod....

But you should definitely post your gear beta...

[scuffy b]

I just did it again, here's my rack, in order of appearance:
#2 Friend
#3 Friend
#4 Friend
#4 Camalot
#5 Friend
#6 Friend
#6 Friend
#3.5 Friend at the very top

You might want more small stuff down low.
Nobody in the peanut gallery was acting nervous.

[Jaybro]

Just heard from one of your cohorts, sounds like a great timewas had by all!

[scuffy b]

Six people hanging out on the ledge, a good social scene.
I noticed that in one of Karl Baba's posts he says you can run laps on this until
your skin falls off.
The limiting factor for me is my left heel. It still feels like it's in the process of
gettin a blister.
I noticed that I was using more heel/toe and less face smear than Linda.
It's less than vertical so I guess that means more choices.

[Jaybro]

After the other day I gotta ask.

Where is the hard part?  What's the crux?

It's easier at the top in the knob hoping, but the rest all seems about the same.   Is there an acknowledged crux?

[Bob]

Pour Moi le crux c'est le 4 inches...the first part of the wide and then it gets easier as it opens up a bit and your big green best friend walks with ya for a ways, but not all the way...

[wee man]

i  did it in non hardman style with with 1 #3 , 2#4, 1#5 and 2#6 camalots and a little blue alien or something of that nature before the squeeze ,an awesome pitch

[caughtinside]

Wow!  This thing was bad ass!! Couldn't find a particular crux... the whole thing was work but pretty secure.