adamgable
5.6 Fist
Posts: 5
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« on: March 01, 2008, 02:08:35 PM » |
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Hey, If you are working a crack that is about 20 to 30 degrees overhanging and is double hands what is the best way to move up. I can't get my knee in it and can't quite figure out what to do. Everytime I kick through I cannot get my foot to stick and then when i do on the off chance get it to stick the angle is so shallow i really can't move at all. On steeper stuff i just move along shuffling a way but this not so steep crack is kickin my ass. I've climbed things like Big Pink and Bad Girls Dream and this thing is less flared so ican't even somewhat wedge in. Any Ideas would rock.
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1429
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« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2008, 07:18:41 PM » |
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That is a more difficult size than the climbs you mentioned ( though those climbs have their,tough, moments). Upper body jams, + nothing for the lower = hard.) post up you, or anyone, when you figure that excrement out!
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RussWalling
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« Reply #2 on: March 02, 2008, 12:12:54 AM » |
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What would that be in inches?
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adamgable
5.6 Fist
Posts: 5
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« Reply #3 on: March 02, 2008, 10:55:23 AM » |
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About 4.5 to 5 inches. just a little bigger than i can go with my fist. maybe my knobby knees are just no good. It is really a strange size. Any help would be great. Jay i know those climbs are different but the angles and the wide are the only thing I can relate to. Thanks
adam
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1429
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« Reply #4 on: March 02, 2008, 11:36:46 AM » |
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Possibly, Ideally; butterfly, invert, jam lower (part of upper) leg in as far as it will go (hopefully most of the way to the knee), make sure it goes in toes up, then tripod off the lower leg, jammed or not, sit up and repeat. Like the crux of Bad Ass Mama. Hard to say though, without seeing the crack. Does it lean either left or right?
Hmm, if I read you right this IS the technique that isn't working.
Photos?
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« Last Edit: March 02, 2008, 11:40:42 AM by Jaybro »
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RussWalling
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« Reply #5 on: March 02, 2008, 12:39:15 PM » |
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Jay sounds right on... hideous size. Shin jams and tripods with many inverts to cover some ground. Ideally it will lean so you can get some righteous shin scum and calf locks.
If it is really steep, do the wide pony inverts and stack in between your legs. Top toe up, bottom toe down. Post some pics and send me a gas card.
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adamgable
5.6 Fist
Posts: 5
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« Reply #6 on: March 02, 2008, 01:27:22 PM » |
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That sounds about right. I 'll give it a go. Hopefully it stays warm up here in wyoming. I need to lose the winter weight then maybe i'll be able to get my fat ass up it. I was only getting the foot in toe down. I'll try toe up so i can pull with my leg. Its a bitch though. No lean
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #7 on: March 02, 2008, 01:50:25 PM » |
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like mother superior size and angle? hard time visuallizing
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adamgable
5.6 Fist
Posts: 5
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« Reply #8 on: March 02, 2008, 04:17:06 PM » |
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I don't know anything about mother superior. Sorry. I can't think of anything out here in wyoming that is like it for reference. ANyways this route is up here in the bighorns. for anybody reading this though, everything up here is complete choss  when it warms up a little more and i get a chance to really get after it i will post some photos. As of 30 minutes ago it was sunny t shirt weather, and as of 10 min ago it was a blizzard. Go figure |
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1429
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« Reply #10 on: March 02, 2008, 10:59:33 PM » |
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Nice reference, Munge!
Bighorns? Adam, are you in Buffalo or Sheridan or somewhere like that? My older bro lives in Gillette.
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adamgable
5.6 Fist
Posts: 5
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« Reply #11 on: March 03, 2008, 08:35:31 AM » |
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Jay, I'm in sheridan. was in laramie for 3 years then moved back up here with my wife. Once you've been in the bighorns you always come back. does your bro climb. If not if you are ever up this way give me a holler. I have some tasty treats for you to have at.
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Jaybro
Wide Zombie
Posts: 1429
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« Reply #12 on: March 03, 2008, 11:05:58 AM » |
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Adam, my brother (Charlie Anderson) does climb, though not really hard. 100+ ascents of the Tower (probably 60-80 Durrance) if you ever get in trouble in Gillette he will be the tall bald bespectacled man prosecuting you, haha- he's the city attorney.
Do you know Frank Saunders over at the Tower? Never a dull moment with him!
I'll give a shout when I get up that way. Backpacked to Cloud peak, skied up there never have rally climbed much in the Bighorns.
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mungeclimber
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« Reply #13 on: March 07, 2008, 11:23:20 PM » |
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Adam, my brother (Charlie Anderson) does climb, though not really hard. 100+ ascents of the Tower (probably 60-80 Durrance) if you ever get in trouble in Gillette he will be the tall bald bespectacled man prosecuting you, haha- he's the city attorney.
note to self. heh |
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