Getting to the route and gear beta:

Submitted by Russ Walling:
Park at the regular Hall of Horrors parking area. Directly in front of you and slightly to your left is this route, but you probably can't see it.... This well hidden fissure has an overland approach, or a crawl through a slot and chasm approach. Pick one depending on your mood. The easiest way to get there is to follow Yoavs beta picture.

Gear, in order of appearance:

You can see what Will placed in the photo. I would say take a couple of hand/fist sized pieces and any giant cam you have, just in case. The anchor is two Mussy Hooks on the summit to climbers left. Not sure why they are there, or who put them there. Walk off is on easy ground to climbers right after topping out.

pics by Russ and Yoav


Additional notes and strategy:

The best stategy is to do every other route in the park, and then this one. Rock is fairly suspect, and the climbing is very average on the pile scale, but, it is wide. The best part of this route is that it has fixed anchors on top. If was laying in the chimney to belay, I'd really be fussy. Short approach, sheltered from the wind, and I bet none of your friends have done it.

I did it right side in, and thought it was about 5.8. Will, who led it, did it left side in, and it sounded about 5.9+

This Ain't No Party, 5.9+
FA: Yoav Altman & Ilona Barash, November 2007
































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