Shake N Bake, 5.9+
FA: Dave Baker and Mike McEwan, 1972
to the route and gear beta:
From the guidebook page at the link above: Drive toward the campground and park at the big boulder in the middle of the road (add: or at the restrooms in the campground) On the right you will see the dome. I'll add: There is a pretty good trail leading up to the dome and the prominent roofs on the route Bee Line, a 5.9 fingercrack. Approach is about 20 minutes.
Here is the guidebook text: Shake N Bake
Bring some 3" stuff
to set an anchor for the belayer.
Additional notes and strategy:
Beeline is ths obvious thin crack under some prominent roofs that you can see from the boulder in the road. Go towards this route and then look to the right to see the obvious right leaning slashes on the South face. Here is the beta photo from the guide book. You will need to scramble up onto the ledge at the base of the route. Shake N Bake starts at the far left end of this ledge, and may have some seasonal wetness at the start. What season, I don't know, but there was water there on 1/09
This route is basically a 4" crack in the back of a flare. Fist size will probably dictate whether it is not so bad, or a full on nightmare. There are plenty of edges and features on the right wall to use as footholds. For the most part your leg up to the knee is in the crack the whole way. The crux is probably the first 15 feet or so.
Mountain Project info on the route: YES
Guide Book info on the route: YES
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