FA: John Bachar, TR, late '70's
to the route and gear beta:
Finding the top of this route can be problematic. Hike up the Sentinel
slabs until you are about 25 feet south of the Illusion Dweller top
out. Look to your right and you will see where the top rope anchor
should be set up. A wide-ish crack under an overlap. Plug in some
2.5" to 5" cams and triple up your extendo rope to the lip.
Lay your TR rig out on the slab to skiers right of the climb and not
in the top of the Rubberfat crack. The rope will jam and feed poorly
if you run it down the crack. Rap into the route.
Bring a full rope to use as an extendo runner to set up the top
rope. Set cams in a flared overlap well back from the edge of the
cliff. in a slot that takes 2.5" to 5" cams. This is really
the only place for pro anyway.
Will in the intial pod, standing on possibly the most
portable hold in all of Joshua Tree.
Map by SteelMonkey
Will writes on Mountain Project:
This route is a neglected gem that rarely gets done. The line is a
straight up shallow crack/trough/groove system with cryptic movement
in the first half followed by straightforward but not necessarily
easy offwidth and squeeze in the top half. The wide stuff up top thankfully
features a handcrack in the back for a good bit of it. The crux is
probably the entire first 30' of puzzling moves ending with a lieback
on tenuous feet to gain a thank god horn/fin on the edge of the crack.
Be extremely careful with the see-through flake/thread at the 10'
level, outward force would liberate it from the wall. While next door
there will be a 3 deep que for Illusion Dweller, you won't be waiting
in line for this one.
Project info on the route.
If you have any additional info, comments, or pictures of this route,
here to post them on the Forum.