One Armed Giant, 5.10d
FA: Tony Yaniro and Vaino Kodas, 1982

Getting to the route and gear beta:
(provided by Russ)

One Armed Giant is located at Tiger Rocks. Getting out to the route will take about 30 minutes. Park at Split Rock, and head out towards Morongo Man. Eventually you will hit a marked trail going East towards the Bond Boulders and Tiger Rocks. (see approach map). You will be able to see Tiger Rocks fairly soon and they are best approached from below, rather than coming in from the high side. Here is a beta pic of Tiger Rocks, as seen from the approach, more or less.


A few small to medium wireds
1 each cam from 1.5" to 3"
2 3.5" cams
1 4" cam
1 6" cam
1 "whatever you've got" 8" to 9" piece.

Anchor will take large cams (5"), or medium cams (1.5" to 3"). Easy to lower off after your lead. Bring some runners or a short extendo.

photos by Will and Russ

Additional notes and strategy:

Rock quality is good to excellent, and this route is in the shade from about 10am onward.

I placed a nest of fair to poor wireds at the start to keep me from falling way down into a spine wrecking pit if I popped getting to the crack proper. Once you get into the base of the chimney, there is good pro available, starting at about 1.5" size.

If you can stay well out on the lip of the chimney starting at about mid height, you can escape the maw and get onto the right hand arete. I burrowed into the back of the chimney and this added about 25ft. of chimney moves to the route. I would have gone out to the lip, but it seemed a bit scary and a fall would be catastrophic.

The rope will try to get stuck in the crack in the back of the flare. Watch for it, or maybe place something to keep it out of the perfect rope grabbing constriction that is about 20ft up. Ours went in there and was giving plenty of rope drag during the lead. At one point, it was so stuck while I was being lowered from the anchor, that I had to redo some climbing and eventually grab the stuck rope with sling to free it. As you can see from the main pic on this page, there are some rope tricks going on. YMMV.

Descend to climbers right, down some slabs and then traverse back along the base. Fairly easy and straightforward scramble.


Mountain Project info on the route. None available

Map by SteelMonkey

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