Mongolian Clusterfuck, 5.10a R
FA: Jim Donini, et al. 1972

Getting to the route and gear beta:
Submitted by: Ed Hartouni

Park at Reed's Pinnacle pullout. Walk west on 120 to the tunnel, drop down the embankment. Go past Goldrush picking your way carefully on a loose slope. Make your way over to the cliff and walk it until you get to the toe. Once there, walk back up a little ways to the obvious big crack next to a tree that you knew had to be the climb!


Assorted large stuff. We had a BD old camalot #5, a Friend #6, something Duecy gave to Jaybro for some article Jaybro wrote but Duecy didn't have cash for payment... Once you get over the initial vertical piece of this climb and onto the diagonaling second part, you run it out to the end... thus the "R" rating.

Jaybro starts up belayed by Gary. Check out the rack.
Photo: Ed Hartouni

Additional notes and strategy:

I found the crux on this really hard, but it was early in the 5.10a OW "pink list". Definitely tricky foot work, and classic armbar in the crux. I think I went right side in. You have to keep it together on the runout. Not hard, but you are definitely chatting with the reaper.


Mountain Project info on the route. None Available

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