Modern Warfare, 5.10a
FA: Ray Olson and Alan Nelson, 1983
to the route and gear beta:
Modern Warfare is located in the Loveland area on the north side of the Beak Boulder Rocks formation between Throbbing Gristle and Kamikaze. If going only to these routes, approach from the main road from an interpretive sign pullout on the north side of the road where you can see the Beak Boulder itself. Walk up the obvious wash more or less straight toward the Beak. Otherwise, if doing things at Tiger Rocks or Split Rock area, approach from Split Rock parking area as for Tiger Rocks and onward from there. Approx 30min approach.
Mostly 3" to 3.5" with a wider section up top. A good rack would be singles from #1 camalot to #5 friend with doubles in the #3 and #3.5 and maybe #4. Anchor takes hand sized stuff in a horizontal a few feet back from the lip.
Additional notes and strategy:
Pretty straightforward splitter. Crux at the bulge where it goes to tight knee. Start at an obvious, large detached sharp edged defoliated flake leaning against the wall. Seemed fair for the rating. Rock is overall very good, with a few crumbly plates inside the crack at points.
Mountain Project info on the route. NONE
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