Moby Dick, Left, 5.9
FA: Bob Kamps and Frank Sacherer, 1963

Getting to the route and gear beta:
Submitted By: Ed Hartouni

Part on the road at El Cap Meadows. Walk up to the toe of El Cap's Nose, then left to the Southwest Base. Walk up the drainage past the Pine Line ramp, to the Moby Dick Center start, then around the corner to Moby Dick Left.


A long first pitch, we took a rack of doubles from Yellow Alien to #3 old camalot, and a #4, #4.5 and #5 old camalots. Seems like a lot, but the feeling of security is worth it.

Gary Carpenter takes over the lead on our first successful attempt.
Photo: Ed Hartouni

Additional notes and strategy:

Probably not too bad after multiple laps, but a continuously strenuous chimney. Crux is probably low, but there is a squeeze near the top which takes anything you had left. Chains on a ledge to the left of the corner past this squeeze.


Mountain Project info on the route.

If you have any additional info, comments, or pictures of this route, click here to post them on the Forum.