Getting to the route and gear beta:
Submitted
by Russ Walling:
This is a great route! Getting to the base is quasi fuzzy for me. The parking
turnout is 1.4 miles from El Cap bridge. Walk into the forest toward the
Sentinel until you cross a dry wash and find a climbers trail that also
services Manana and Ying Yang. Mental block is the beyond obvious right
facing corner. Approach takes about 10 to 12 minutes.
Gear,
in order of appearance per pitch:
1. sling, 1" cam, sling, 1.5"
cam, 2" cam, 2.5" cam, 3" cam, 4" cam.
2. 4" cam, 4" tube, 1" cam, #7 stopper.
3. #7 stopper, 4.5" tube, 1.5" cam, 3" cam, 2" cam
Bring a 5" to 6" cam to push. 5" is probably more useful
given the choice.
Topo of Mental Block. To print out, use the pdf link.
Mental
Block topo PDF
topo by Russ, Map by SteelMonkey
Additional notes and strategy:
First
pitch is pretty chossy and grassy. Not too hard, and soon cleans up once
you are into the main crack system. Maybe
a bad fall potential, so don't fall.
Pitch two is the main event and is a great right side in problem. You are
in the the thing the whole way and it is very secure. Look for the thin
pro on the right wall near the top of the pitch.
Pitch three has sort of a hard move out of the belay getting over a tiny
roof. From there it is standard fare until you shimmy inside the chimney
for the last 20 feet or so. Kinda hard to get into the chimney, but easy
after that. The belay ledge has a bunch of loose blocks and crap on the
ledge. Bolt anchor with slings to rap from. 60 meter is ok, 70 m is better....
I did it with a 50m.
If you are 6'6" or larger you can stem the entire route. My partner Bob Bolton did this...sad man, just sad. He may not have done a single OW move.
The pushed
cam on pitch two is bomber the whole way. The crack climbs like it is low
angle and your leg and knee is in the whole way. No worries!
ASCA: Replaced bolts at anchors 2. 3. 5 and the protection bolt 1999, 2001
Jack Hoeflich, Greg Barnes, Peter Carrick & friend
Mental
Block, 5.10C
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