Getting to the route and gear beta:
Submitted_By: Ed Hartouni

Park at Reed's turn out. Walk up 120 and descend the slope at the tunnel. Past Goldrush, continue down next to the cliff as possible. You'll come across an obvious arching crack, wide at the bottom. This is the place.

Gear:

This crack starts wide and squeezes down to hand. Take some big stuff for the bottom, I seem to recall #4.5 old camalot was handy. So probably at least singles from small (e.g. yellow alien) to #4.5. At some point it gets easy and you are tying off trees and bushes.

Gary, right side in, expending huge quantities of energy.
Notice the heel-toe!
Photo: Ed Hartouni

Additional notes and strategy:

The bottom of this climb is the business. Tight radically leaning squeeze with a flare that is spitting you out at every opportunity. Strenuous, lizard like moves, think of a lazy Chuckwalla gets you to a thin hands section. You're gassed but have to pull a few jam moves. Then you get a slabby cruxy thing to gain the ramp. You can walk off this climb by continuing along the ramp which comes out up the slope from the start.

 

Mountain Project info on the route. None Available