Getting to the route and gear beta:
by Russ Walling:
This route is on the Wart, which more or less faces Sports Challenge Rock in the Real Hidden Valley. As you walk towards, say, Clean and Jerk, on the Nature Trail, this formation and route will be looking at you on your right.
Gear, in order of appearance:
I placed a 2" cam, and then another 2" cam, and then a #6 Friend. The anchor will take a couple of cams in the 2.5" to 3" range and if you want to keep the rope out of the crack while TRing, a small cam about 1" or less can be placed to the side of the crack. You will need a cordalette or extendo runner to top rope. If you do the starting crack, bring an extra piece in the 1.5" range and a couple of slings. You can also step right into the route and avoid the best climbing down low.
Additional notes and strategy:
True to its name, the start is "the Good", the middle is "the Bad" and the wide is "the Ugly", but all together it is still really good overall.
The wide section on this is really pretty awkward. I did it left side in, right side in, and tried to stack it straight on.. no try was pretty or elegant. If your knee goes in at the crux you will be much better off than me...mine did not fit. Deep fist jams are secure, but give you no height and in no way help get your knee above the constriction.
It seems grainy, but at the business it is not too bad. If you are a taper, take off at least two letter grades. If you are a bleeder, add a letter grade.
All the pro is super bomber and right there.