Couldn't Wait, 5.10a
FA: Steve Gerberding and Mark Bowling, 2000
to the route and gear beta:
This route lies on the wall that is climbers right and behind Coarse and Buggy, the mega classic Josh dihedral route. The start of Couldn't Wait is up off the desert floor a ways, so scramble in from climbers right along a series of ledges.
The start is either the two bolt face just right of the pillar, (lame!) or directly up the right facing corner with a possible death block hanging out of the maw. Seemed pretty solid to me, but I would not place pro behind it and expect to live in the event of a fall.
Additional notes and strategy:
The various guidebooks (Vogel, Bartlett) have lines all over this crag, none really describing this route. The actual Couldn't Wait is rumored to start on the two bolt face to the right of the pillar, and then wanders back over to the wide. Climb the corner instead of the two bolt face.
Be wary of the fake loose block in the starting corner. You can pro below the block and the moves around it are not hard.
Our crew did the wide right side in and left side in. Pick your poison.
If you have the hips of a Thai crossdresser, you can get right inside the chimney from the get-go and stay in there. If you are more voluptuous, the constriction at the start will force you to the outside.
Descent is off the back heading South to SouthWest down some ledges and ramps.
If you have any additional info, comments, or pictures of this route, click here to post them on the Forum.