Getting to the route and gear beta:
submitted by Russ, maps by SteelMonkey

This route is the obvious wide crack directly right of Leave it to Beaver, on Sports Challenge Rock in the Real Hidden Valley.

Pro is a straightforward affair, starting with something about 4 inch, and going up to the largest cam you can get your hands on. The upper half of the crack is probably too wide for anything but your ass-cheek, so there may be a bit of a runout.

Gear:

A few cams starting at 3.5 - 4" and going to a #6 Wild Country protects this quite well. I think I placed 2 cams on the route, three cams would be well protected, and 4 would be overkill. The anchor at the top takes 2" to 3" cams and is situated to the right of the climb to keep the rope out of the crack.

Susan on an initial foray, 1/08

Susan and Russ, 1/08.

Additional notes and strategy:

The crux comes early, and is soon over after a long reach to a face edge out right.

Some sites on the web are claiming this route is over graded and is more like 5.8+, and not 5.10. They are probably correct.

Descent is via a rap station well over to climbers right on the end of the formation.

This route gets a lot of shade, so plan accordingly.

 

Mountain Project info on the route.