Between A Rock And A Hard Place, 5.10c
FA: Tony Yaniro, Toivo Kodas, and Vaino Kodas, 1981
to the route and gear beta:
The route is approached from a long thin pullout (more like a wide spot in the dirt road) on the (southbound) right side of the road approximately 4.3 miles south of the main park road. Park the car, grab the pack, head east across the desert of the road. You will likely see some evidence of previous hikers, so try to match up with their approach path. You skirt a lump on the north and you will see the Star Wars Rock complex pretty much straight ahead. Head for that. The inverted "V" looking rock where Between A Rock and A Hard Place is located is just down and right from Star Wars Rock. Approach time is around 20 to 25 minutes of relatively flat hiking.
Additional notes and strategy:
Between A Rock launches
with about 40 feet of 5.8 chimney climbing at the bottom. If you're
solid on this, you could probably just drag along enough gear to slap
in once you get up to the business (7" on down to fist sized),
which is a tight squeeze. If you're smaller or thin, you should be
able to squiggle your way through at the squeeze on some fist jams
and left knee bars. If you're larger, things get pretty damn hard
in a hurry and it's tough making progress through the crux. The rock
throughout is pretty decent with good friction, and not much was peeling
when we did it.
Mountain Project info on the route. Yes
Map by SteelMonkey
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