Author Topic: when 5.13 became a reality  (Read 1666 times)

RonAnderson

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when 5.13 became a reality
« on: May 20, 2019, 12:57:43 PM »
  My buddy Chuck was itchin to do some more aid, so we decided to Sugar Loaf it and do the fracture- which at the time was still listed in the guides as an aid climb.  It encompassed a huge roof on the second pitch that shot out more than 40 feet into the air- and we anticipated a very thrilling day of exposure.   Naturally we had our courage sack with the required mind numbing substances in order to deal with the ordeal..  Its the end of the 70s,, 1979 to be exact - no internet no forums, very little info flowing at all really. 

  So we arrive at the base of the climb and eye the first A-1 crack - and yeah we have pins with us.  We had the entire crag to ourselves which was often the case back then-- can you imagine!   We even crane our necks to view the roof - the huge obstacle to the summit.  Its a nice warm day - windless and perfect as Chuck led up the first pitch to a small ledge belay and the easy cleaning had me joining him in no time- so i led the slopey pitch up to the corner at the start of the roof.  We are ready for bear-- we have some newly acquired "friends"  hexes and stoppers and pins up to multiple bongs.. Yeah  the friggin rack weighed thirty pounds !  BUt the line was intimidating even as an aid route i tell ya! 

  Chuck soon joins me on the ledge and we celebrate with the "usual" and take in the view - smelling the pines and whot-knott.   So Chuck gets up,, and scrambles over the the very start of the roof crack and i hear him say "   WTF ~~Henry,, check this out..  ( i should mention that our entire group had the nickname of Henry,, after "Hot Henry Barber"  )  ( and yes that in itself is a hilarious story)..   I ask "henry" what he is talking about, and hes holding a small cardboard sign that is attached by some bailing wire that is wrapped around a chockstone in the crack  .   The sign read "  THE ROOF GOES FREE!!!  5.13   ~  T Yaniro"  dated the DAY before...   

    WE read it several times, then we look to see chalk allllll the way out to the lip of the roof..  We look at each other in complete disbelief..  How can this friggin be???   Is it a joke??   So now the question is~~do we  do it still on aid, or do we rap with a tails tucked firmly twixt our legs?    THe evidence was there, this thing had been freed.  SO we silently wrapped the two raps back the the pine needles.    The Next issue of climbing had the story..  That Dang Yaniro cheated us out of one great aid climb.. :o :D   And introduced 5.13 to the climbing  world..
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RonAnderson

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Re: when 5.13 became a reality
« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2019, 01:31:55 PM »
I should also note that  within about a week, we found out Max Jones had been working on the roof too.    ::)
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T Hock

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Re: when 5.13 became a reality
« Reply #2 on: May 20, 2019, 02:56:34 PM »
Cool story "Henry". :)
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RonAnderson

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Re: when 5.13 became a reality
« Reply #3 on: May 20, 2019, 04:20:04 PM »
Yeah-- to think we missed the event by a day blew our minds, along with the rating, and the climb,, and uhhh Yaniro...I never went back to that crack- no way in shizba was i going to "get on it" !  And i wasnt going to sully a free route with aid-- playing the game by the rules and all. :)

 Sugar Loaf was a spot where we saw a few feats of courageous climbing,, like the day Bill Todd and Rick Sumner put up "Tapestry"  with a mere 120 lead to the first bolt.  We watched them from the trees, thinking we would witness an ugly grounder at any time.   Balls of steel- friggin balls of steel.
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T Hock

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Re: when 5.13 became a reality
« Reply #4 on: May 20, 2019, 05:02:45 PM »
Nice!
 Hope Rick is doin well, haven't seen him post for awhile so he apparently wisely bailed from the Taco.
Was cool to meet and climb with the crew in the Selenite's a few years back.



 
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RonAnderson

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Re: when 5.13 became a reality
« Reply #5 on: May 20, 2019, 05:16:49 PM »
Yeah  Nice pics Tad  .   Selenites always looked good!   SOrry i never made it to them.. BUt I did get in a few desert crags with Rick.  Gonna have to shoot him an email and see wassup!
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Jaybro513

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Re: when 5.13 became a reality
« Reply #6 on: May 30, 2019, 05:43:07 AM »
Thanks Hank

RonAnderson

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Re: when 5.13 became a reality
« Reply #7 on: May 30, 2019, 01:10:09 PM »
 ;)    So the young lady while hiking past us then asks,, so are ALL OF YOU named "Henry"  LMAO!   



Later was heard:   Alright Henry ,, on belay  ~~climbing Henry,, Climb on Henry~.. 
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RonAnderson

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Re: when 5.13 became a reality
« Reply #8 on: June 07, 2019, 06:48:43 PM »
Here is the infamous sign left by Tony Yaniro only the day before.  Sorry for the pic, it was taken with a cheapo 110 instamatic- all the rage in 79... :D
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overwatch

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Re: when 5.13 became a reality
« Reply #9 on: June 07, 2019, 08:01:24 PM »
Not familiar with the climb, how did Yaniro protect it?
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RonAnderson

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Re: when 5.13 became a reality
« Reply #10 on: June 07, 2019, 09:01:02 PM »
Friends and hexes and stoppers on the lead.  If memory serves,, i think there was on or two fixed pieces but the roof crack was about 40 feet..
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